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foreigners, though the reasonably attractive Doi Duong beach just east of town is very popular with the Vietnamese. In the centre of town, Highway 1 crosses Tran Hung Dao Bridge, beside which lies a fleet of fishing boats looking like they come straight off a postcard. Turn left off the bridge’s southwestern end and stroll along Trung Trac, and you’ll soon plunge into the thick of things at the wharfside fish market. In the other direction, Trung Trac skirts the city centre en route to the sedate riverside Ho Chi Minh Museum (Tues–Sun 7.30–11.30am & 1.30–4.30pm; small admission fee). Currently undergoing renovation, its exhibits include memorabilia of Ho’s life from his early days abroad up to his death in 1969, such as his white tunic, walking stick, sandals and metal helmet. The rows of varnished wooden desks and tables in the evocative Duc Thanh School (same hours) next door have remained unchanged since Ho’s brief spell as a teacher here, and effortlessly conjure up another age.

Over Tran Hung Dao Bridge, beside the Victory Monument, Nguyen That Thanh strikes off to the right and to the city beach. The scruffy patch of sand it hits first doesn’t look too promising, but 700m northeast it opens out into a more wholesome casuarina-shaded spot, backed up by some smart hotels. There’s also a string of restaurants and bars along here that do a good trade at the weekend.

The south–central coast | The coastal road to Nha Trang | Phan Thiet |

Practicalities

The bus station is a couple of kilometres north of the centre on Tu Van Tu, while Binh Thuan Tourist, 82 Trung Truc (062/381 6821, www.binhthuan-tourist.com), can provide information and a map of the region around Phan Thiet. There’s an ATM at the Vietinbank on Nguyen Tat Thanh, with the post office a few steps further down the same road, while several places offer internet access along Tran Hung Dao.

There are plenty of places to stay in Phan Thiet, though there’s nothing exciting about any of them. The best place in town is the ageing Phan Thiet at 364 Tran Hung Dao (062/381 5830; US$11–20), where the spacious rooms are reasonable value. Down on the beach are a few fancier places, including the Doi Duong (062/382 1579, 062/382 5858; US$21–50), a smart high-rise that has over seventy well-equipped rooms, a swimming pool, tennis courts and two restaurants. Bigger still is the mammoth Novotel Ocean Dunes Resort (062/382 2393, www.novotel.com; US$76–US$151 and over), a little further along, which has an eighteen-hole golf course, two swimming pools and free use of bicycles.

There are few appealing eating options in town, though on the southwestern side of the square below the city’s central bridge, the Nam Thanh Lau, at 5 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, has great seafood and the generous portions are good value. Upmarket dining can be found at the Sea Horse, at the Novotel Ocean Dunes Resort, where dishes such as stuffed prawn with crab meat and sesame seeds cost around $10.

The south–central coast | The coastal road to Nha Trang |

Mui Ne

From being a sleepy backwater ignored by domestic and international tourists alike, MUI NE has become the country’s hottest beach destination, thanks largely to an eclipse of the sun in the mid-1990s that had its optimum viewing spot at this pretty beach. Now it’s popular as a weekend retreat for expats living in Ho Chi Minh City as well as a favourite with upmarket visitors happy to pay $50–100 a day to lounge around in a luxurious resort.

The village of Mui Ne lies just 22km east along the coast road from Phan Thiet, and most resorts are located along the 10km crescent of sand that leads up to it. After about 8km, a turning on the right leads to the Po Shanu Towers (daily 7am–5pm; small admission fee), which date from the eighth century. While they can’t compare with monuments like Po Klong Garai near Phan Rang (see "The Town"), they are worth a look as the two big towers and one small one are in reasonable repair, and the site occupies a pretty hilltop location with good views. As the road dips down to the coast, it passes the