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By Root 1585 0

between hills and the choppy, turquoise waters of the South China Sea. Hardly more than a wide spot in the road, Ca Na is nevertheless reasonably well equipped for feeding and watering passing tourists and, with time in hand, you might consider an overnight stay in this area. Given its proximity to the highway, Ca Na is a more relaxing place than it has any right to be. Beyond the coracles parked along the beach the water is invitingly clear, and snorkelling is a possibility, though you’d be wise to ask locals where to wade in as the coral here is razor sharp. If you crave a little more solitude, a spine of decent dunes back up another good stretch of sand a couple of kilometres south; a fifteen-minute walk north of the resort area is Ca Na village itself, characterized by the blue fishing boats typical of coastal Vietnam. Just 3km before reaching the town, on the right, the Korean-operated Vietnam Scuba (062/385 3917, 062/385 3918) offers dive trips for $100 to join a day’s dive, with all equipment provided. It also has smart, well-equipped bungalows with balconies looking over the sea and jetty, plus two pools (US$51–150): a package of room, diving and all meals costs $170 per day.

There are a few other places to stay at Ca Na, with the best being the Hon Co Ca Na Motel, right beside Highway 1 (068/386 0999, honcocana@hcm.vnn.vn; US$31–50), where small but smartly furnished rooms with balconies are scattered across a promontory: its facilities include internet access, karaoke, massage, billiards and a large restaurant. A little south of here, the Hai Son (068/376 1322; US$11–20) is showing signs of age, but has clean and simple air conditioned rooms with doors straight onto the beach. The Ca Na (068/376 1320; US$10 and under–20), between the two, is very run-down and best avoided. All these places have their own restaurants, and there’s a smart new eatery, the Mai Linh, just south of town where, unsurprisingly, fresh seafood is the order of the day.

The south–central coast | The coastal road to Nha Trang |

Phan Rang and around

The numerous vine trellises that abut the highway are the biggest surprise of the journey between Ca Na and Phan Rang. Grapes are a speciality of Ninh Thuan Province (of which Phan Rang is the capital) and the vineyards in which they grow lend the area a faintly Mediterranean tang. PHAN RANG itself is an unlovely place, with the main thoroughfare, Thong Nhat, dissecting the centre of town. Its western limits have fused with the neighbouring town of THAP CHAM, whose name, meaning “Cham Towers”, gives a clue to the real reason for stopping here. This region of Vietnam once comprised the Cham kingdom of Panduranga, and of the nearby Cham remnants none is better preserved than those at Po Klong Garai. Another nearby attraction is Ninh Chu Beach, a glorious sweep of wide sand that is sometimes deliciously quiet on weekdays, but often overrun with Vietnamese at weekends. There are a few resorts along the beach, which make better accommodation alternatives than staying in Phan Rang’s drab hotels, though they are mostly geared towards Vietnamese visitors. Even if beaches and Cham ruins aren’t on your agenda, you may have to overnight in the area if you’re heading into the hills around Da Lat (see "Da Lat and around").

The south–central coast | The coastal road to Nha Trang | Phan Rang and around |

Arrival, information and accommodation

Arriving in Phan Rang by bus you’ll be dropped at the bus station 300m north of the town centre; trains pull in 7km northwest of town at Ga Thap Cham. The Agribank at 540–544 Thong Nhat exchanges foreign currency. The post office is at the northern end of town at 217a Thong Nhat, where there is also internet access.

Accommodation in Phan Rang itself is limited; your best bet is the Huu Nghi (068/392 0434, huunghihotel@hcm.vnn.vn; US$11–30) at 398 Thong Nhat, which has smartly furnished, carpeted rooms with bathtubs, and excellent value suites. Alternatively, try the Ho Phong (068/392 0333, hophonghotel@yahoo.com), south of the town centre at 363 Ngo Gia Tu,