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By Root 1380 0

street’s eastern end, the stolid, grey-brick Nha Trang Cathedral, built in the 1930s, casts its shadow over the sloping cobbled track that winds round to its front doors from Nguyen Trai. Under the lofty, vaulted ceilings within the cathedral’s dowdy exterior, vivid stained-glass windows depict Christ, Mary, Joseph, Joan of Arc and St Theresa. If you feel as if you’re being watched as you climb up to the cathedral, it’s probably the huge white Buddha image seated on a hillside above Long Son Pagoda, 800m west along Thai Nguyen. Stone gateposts topped by lotus buds mark the entrance to the 1930s-built pagoda. An impressive bronze Buddha stands at the head of the altar, and there are the usual capering dragons on the eaves, but it’s the huge White Buddha, 152 steps up the hillside behind, that’s the pagoda’s greatest asset – and Nha Trang’s most recognizable landmark. Crafted in 1963 to symbolize the Buddhist struggle against the repressive Diem regime, around its lotus-shaped pedestal are carved images of the monks and nuns who set fire to themselves in protest, among them Thich Quang Duc (see "The self-immolation of Thich Quang Duc").

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The south–central coast | Nha Trang and around | The city centre and beach | Along Thai Nguyen |

Scuba-diving and water sports

Nha Trang is the dive centre of Vietnam, as is well evidenced by the number of dive companies that operate here. It’s best avoided between October and December, when the waters can get stirred up and murky, but during the dry season (Jan–May) there are dive boats kitting out and casting off every day to one of over twenty dive sites in the region. A typical day out, including a couple of dives and lunch, costs around $50 for an experienced diver, more if you need instruction. Two reliable companies are Rainbow Divers (058/352 4351, www.divevietnam.com), which has a base at 90a Hung Vuong, and Sailing Club Divers (058/352 2788, www.sailingclubvietnam.com), with offices in front of the Nha Trang Sailing Club at 72–74 Tran Phu, Both offer PADI courses, including a Discover Scuba Diving course for beginners.

If you’d rather get your kicks above water, head on down to the stretch of beach beside the Louisiane Brewhouse, where watersports equipment can be rented. For a mere $20 you can scare the wits out of swimmers by zapping them with a jet-ski spray for fifteen minutes, but keep in mind that you will be held responsible for any injuries or damages. Less environmentally disastrous are the sports of parasailing, windsurfing and kayaking, with prices varying according to activity.

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The south–central coast | Nha Trang and around |

Eating and drinking

Finding a decent place to eat presents no problem in Nha Trang, with seafood its speciality. There is no particular district of town to head for, though the budget area around Biet Thu has a wide variety of places. You don’t need to leave the beach to eat during the day, as strolling vendors are on hand with their tempting snacks. There’s also a night market south of the water park with many cheap food stalls.

The south–central coast | Nha Trang and around | Eating and drinking |

Restaurants and cafés

Café des Amis 2d Biet Thu. Perennial favourite and heaving most nights, serving well-prepared Vietnamese and Western dishes with a good vegetarian selection; the steamed fish with ginger is particularly recommended. Most dishes are 25,000–35,000đ. 7am–10.30pm.

Cyclo Café 130 Nguyen Thien Thuat. A friendly ambience, along with a solid menu of Vietnamese and Italian food (around 40,000–50,000đ per dish), plus locally-brewed beer make this place worth checking out. 7.30am–10pm.

El Coyote 76 Hung Vuong. Tex-Mex dishes like chilli con carne and empanadas, as well as French dishes at around 80,000–90,000đ, served up in a cosy setting. 3pm–11pm

Four Seasons 40 Tran Phu. This smart beachfront restaurant serves seafood specials at around 80,000–100,000đ, plus a good range of shakes and ice creams. 7am–11pm.

Good Morning Vietnam 19b Biet Thu. Another branch of the successful nationwide