Rough Guide to Vietnam - Jan Dodd [177]
A mid-sized seaport set on a narrow stake of land harpooning the South China Sea, QUY NHON attracts few foreign visitors, due to its beach being less dazzling than many others along this coast, and a bit shallow for swimming. For more adventurous travellers, however, the lack of foreigners only adds to the town’s intrigue, while the recently-restored Cham towers in the region and the friendly locals also add to its appeal.
Quy Nhon’s origins lie in the Cham migration south, at the start of the eleventh century, under pressure from the Vietnamese to the north. They named the empire they established in the area Vijaya (“Victory”); its epicentre was the citadel of Cha Ban (see "North to Quang Ngai"), and Quy Nhon – then known as Sri Bonai – developed into its thriving commercial centre. Centuries later, the Tay Son Rebellion boiled over in this neck of the woods. During the American War the city served as a US port and supply centre, and was engorged by refugees from the vicious bombing meted out to the surrounding countryside.
The south–central coast | North to Son My | Quy Nhon and around |
Arrival and information
Flights between Ho Chi Minh City and Quy Nhon touch down at Phu Cat Airport, 35km north of town. A Vietnam Airlines minibus shuttles passengers into and out of town (25,000đ), and the company has an office at 55 Le Hong Phong (056/382 5313). Buses pull up at Quy Nhon’s long-distance bus station, a short xe om ride west of the city centre, at the corner of Tay Son and Nguyen Thai Hoc (though open-tour buses by-pass the town). Quy Nhon’s branch-line train station is beside the Quang Trung statue at the north end of town, though service is irregular, so you’d be better off taking a taxi or xe om (around 50,000–60,000đ) to the nearby station at Dieu Tri for trains to Ho Chi Minh City or Hanoi. The best place for local travel information and bicycle ($2 a day) or motorbike ($10 a day) rental is the Kiwi Café(see "Accommodation"). The Vietcombank, 152 Le Loi, will exchange dollars and has a 24-hour ATM. Many hotels offer free internet or wi-fi, and there’s also internet access at 2g Nguyen Hue.
The south–central coast | North to Son My | Quy Nhon and around |
Accommodation
While Quy Nhon does not have a great choice of hotels, things have improved noticeably in recent years and there are now rooms to suit most tastes and budgets.
Au Co 24 An Duong Vuong 056/374 7699. The best of several mini-hotels clustered together opposite the beach to the west of town. The a/c rooms have TVs and are kept spotlessly clean. US$11–20
HAGL Resort 1 Han Mac Tu 056/374 7100, www.hagl.com.vn. Located at the southwest end of the beach, this hotel has two pools, tennis courts and a couple of restaurants. Its rooms are smartly furnished and many have big balconies overlooking the garden or beach. US$31–50
Lan Anh (Barbara’s) 19 Xuan Dieu 056/389 2921, nzbarb@yahoo.com. Managed by a Kiwi who knows the local area well and runs a tight ship. There’s a variety of a/c and fan rooms as well as a dorm (50,000đ); some rooms have balconies and sea views. US$11–20
Quy Nhon Hotel 8 Nguyen Hue 056/389 2402, www.quynhonhotel.com.vn. The spacious rooms with bathtubs on the ground floor are good value, though the smaller, cheaper rooms upstairs are less appealing. US$11–30
Saigon–Quy Nhon Hotel 24 Nguyen Hue 056/382 0100, www.saigonquynhonhotel.com.vn. This high-rise place is centrally located with a pool and health club. The rooms are carpeted and well-equipped. US$51–150
Seagull (Hai Au) 489 An Duong Vuong 056/384 6377, www.seagullhotel.com.vn. It’s worth paying extra for a room in the new 11-storey wing in order to enjoy the thick-piled carpet, sturdy desk and big TV, as well as superb beach views from the upper floors. US$31–50
The south–central coast | North to Son My | Quy Nhon and around |
The city and beaches
Quy Nhon is not packed with sights, though there are a few places worth checking out. Right in the middle of the city, the Long Khanh Pagoda, at 141 Tran Cao Van, is an imposing structure, its nine-tiered roof