Rough Guide to Vietnam - Jan Dodd [19]
The downside of these open-tour buses is that you’ll be encouraged to book into the company’s own or affiliated hotels, though there’s nothing to stop you staying elsewhere. You’ll also have less choice when it comes to meal stops, which tend to be at rather mediocre and overpriced restaurants; it’s worth taking a picnic. Finally, bear in mind that some buses run overnight – you may save on a night’s accommodation, but don’t expect to get much sleep.
On the national bus network, the government is slowly upgrading state buses, replacing the rickety old vehicles with swish air-conditioned models, particularly on the more popular routes. Don’t necessarily expect a comfortable ride, however, since they still try to cram in as many people as possible, plus luggage, which could be anything from live pigs in baskets to scores of sacks of rice. Progress can be agonizingly slow as buses stop frequently to pick up passengers or for meal breaks. Among older vehicles, breakdowns are fairly common and can sometimes necessitate a roadside wait of several hours while driver, fare collector and mechanic roll up their sleeves and improvise a repair.
Tickets are best bought at bus stations, where fares should be clearly indicated above the ticket windows. At smaller and less organized stations, or if you join a bus mid-route, how much you pay depends very much upon luck and where you are: at certain tourist hot spots, especially in the south, you’ll often be charged over the odds; elsewhere, you might pay the going price. Try to ascertain the correct price and have the exact money ready before boarding as fare collectors will often take advantage of your captive position. For long journeys, buy your ticket a day in advance since many routes are heavily oversubscribed.
Privately owned minibuses compete with public buses on most routes; they sometimes share the local bus station, or simply congregate on the roadside in the centre of a town. You can also flag them down on the road. If anything, they squeeze in even more people per square foot than ordinary buses, and often drive interminably around town, touting for passengers. On the other hand, they do at least run throughout the day and serve routes not covered by public services. Again, try to find what the correct fare should be and agree a price before boarding. Even so, be prepared to find the price has suddenly increased once you’ve got going. You may also find yourself dumped at the side of the road before reaching your destination and having to cram onto the next passing service.
Getting around |
By ferry and boat
A boat-tour around Ha Long Bay is one of Vietnam’s most enjoyable trips, while scheduled ferries sail year-round – weather permitting – to the major islands off Vietnam’s coastline, including Phu Quoc, Cat Ba and Con Dao. In addition, ferry and hydrofoil services run from Haiphong to Cat Ba, and hydrofoils from Ho Chi Minh City to Vung Tau, and from Ha Long City (Bai Chay) to Mong Cai. Though they are gradually being replaced by bridges, a few river ferries still haul themselves from bank to bank of the various strands of the Mekong from morning until night. Numerous aged (and often less than seaworthy) cargo vessels also dawdle between towns, and some ply the route to Ho Chi Minh City, but they tend to be slow and basic; we’ve outlined a handful of the more do-able ones in the text.
Getting around |