Rough Guide to Vietnam - Jan Dodd [216]
The central provinces | Hué |
Eating
It’s not only Hué people who say their cuisine is the best in Vietnam, combining as it does special dishes originating from the Imperial kitchens, vegetarian meals prepared with exquisite care in the pagodas and simple but delicious “frugal meals” which are the essence of Hué home cooking; see the box below for more on Hué’s speciality foods.
Much of the local cuisine originated from Imperial meals, which involved many elaborate dishes presented like works of art before the royal family. Some of the large hotels, such as the Saigon Morin and Huong Giang, now stage “royal meals” for tourists, including traditional music and the opportunity to embarrass yourself in Imperial togs. All this frivolity doesn’t come cheap, though – the food is rich and plentiful, but at more than $80 for two it’s really aimed at tour groups and business entertaining.
If you fancy something sweet, the Hong Phuongpatisserie at 36 Nguyen Tri Phuong, next to the Binh Minh I hotel, is a good spot for coffee and pastries. Or you could try Hué’s most famous chè outlet down the alley beside 29 Hung Vuong, where you can sample a refreshing drink made from green bean and coconut (chè xanh dua), fruit (chè trai cay) or, if you’re lucky, lotus seed (chè hat sen).
Most of the places listed below are found south of the Perfume River, near the hotels and guesthouses, but a few restaurants in the citadel make convenient lunch stops or are worth an excursion in their own right. Several of the smaller hotels serve decent food, usually all day, and there’s no shortage of cafés or cheap and cheerful local hostelries scattered throughout the city. All those listed places below are marked on the map "Hué: South of the Perfume River", except where otherwise stated.
Bun Bo Hué 11b Ly Thuong Kiet. Join breakfasting locals for spicy bun bo at this big, popular and scrupulously clean outlet.
Café 3 3 Le Loi. See "Hué". A cheap and cheerful streetside café serving the standard range of Western and Vietnamese dishes, from spring rolls to fruit shakes. They also have an interesting range of tours on offer
Café on Thu Wheels 3/34 Nguyen Tri Phuong. Jot your own Thu-related pun on the wall at this tiny café-bar, which has long been a popular backpacker pit-stop (though service standards have dropped in recent years). The high-octane Ms Thu also runs excellent motorbike tours around Hué.
Club Garden 8 Vo Thi Sau 054/382 6327. One of several upscale garden restaurants along this street serving classic Vietnamese cuisine, with reasonably priced set menus. Try and reserve a table outside.
Co Do 22 Ben Nghe. Small and inexpensive no-frills restaurant offering a limited menu of local dishes. Lemongrass and chilli are the predominant flavours, accompanying squid, chicken or shrimps. Some people may find the seasoning on the heavy side, but the food is all very fresh and well prepared.
Dong Tam 48/7 Le Loi. This vegetarian restaurant run by a Buddhist family is an oasis of calm. The short menu includes vegetarian banh khoai and good-value combination plates, as well as decent set menus starting at 20,000đ. It’s best at lunchtime when the food’s freshest and you can sit in the garden courtyard.
La Boulangerie Nguyen Tri Phuong. A French charity runs this café and bakery school for local orphans in the hope that they gain employment after graduation. Their shop has an array of light and delicious French pastries, perfect for breakfast or packed away for long boat rides.
La Carambole 19 Pham Ngu Lao 054/381 0491. Innovative and attractive French–Vietnamese owned restaurant serving good-quality