Rough Guide to Vietnam - Jan Dodd [237]
Muong Thanh 1 Phan Boi Chau 038/353 5666. Service is friendly and the rooms well-priced at this large hotel, near the station. There’s a swimming pool on the second floor. US$21–30
Saigon Kim Lien 25 Quang Trung 038/383 8899, www.saigon-tourist.com/saigon-kimlien. Vinh’s top hotel opened in 1990 to commemorate the hundredth anniversary of Ho Chi Minh’s birth. Prices are surprisingly affordable for comfortable and well-proportioned rooms. Facilities include a recommended restaurant, bar, pool, business centre and money exchange. US$31–50
Viet Lao 2 Le Ninh 038/353 8847. Just north of the train station, this is a reasonable budget option if you’re breaking a long journey; the rooms are institutional but all have satellite TV and en-suite bathrooms. US$10 and under
The central provinces - Part 2 | Dong Hoi to Ninh Binh | Vinh and around |
The City
Vinh has fared particularly badly in the twentieth century. As an industrial port-city dominating major land routes, whose population was known for rebellious tendencies, the town became a natural target during both French and American wars. In the 1950s French bombs destroyed large swathes of Vinh, after which the Viet Minh burnt down what remained rather than let it fall into enemy hands; the rebuilt town was flattened once again during the American air raids. Reconstruction proceeded slowly after 1975, mostly financed by East Germany; the decrepit hulks of barrack-like apartment blocks, totally unsuited to the Vietnamese climate, still dominate the city centre. Things are beginning to improve, however, as trade with Laos brings more money into the region: Vinh’s streets are being repaved and pavements laid; smart new villas and hotels are being built; and there’s even a multi-storey supermarket stocked with all manner of goodies. Vinh’s only sight, the Nghe Tinh Soviet Museum (daily: April–Sept 6.30–11am & 2–5.30pm; Oct–March 7–11.30am & 1–5.30pm; free) celebrates a mass uprising against French rule in the 1930s (See "The anti–colonial struggle"), relating the causes, development and aftermath of the uprising, but is really only for the specialist.
The central provinces - Part 2 | Dong Hoi to Ninh Binh | Vinh and around |
Kim Lien: Ho Chi Minh’s birthplace
Ho Chi Minh was born in 1890 in Hoang Tru Village, KIM LIEN commune, 14km west of Vinh. The two simple houses made of bamboo wattle and palm-leaf thatch are 1959 reconstructions, now surrounded by fields of sweet potatoes. Ho’s birthplace is said to be the hut by itself on the left as you approach, while behind stands the brick-built family altar. At the age of 6 Ho moved 2km west, to what is now called Lang Sen (Lotus Village), to live with his father in very similar surroundings. The two Sen houses are also replicas, built in 1955, with nothing much to see inside, but the complex is peaceful and alive with dancing butterflies. A museum nearby (daily: April–Sept 7–11.30am & 1.30–5pm; Oct–March 7.30am–noon & 1.30–5pm; free) illustrates Ho’s world travels with memorabilia and photos.
To reach Kim Lien by car or motorbike, take Phan Dinh Phung in front of Vinh market and follow signs along the new highway until you reach the turning for Lang Sen and Kim Lien. The signed route takes you first to Ho’s birthplace and then loops round to find the museum beside a car park and Ho’s father’s house a little further back, down a path beside a small lotus pond. A xe om to both sites from Vinh should set you back around 100,000đ, including waiting time.
The central provinces - Part 2 | Dong Hoi to Ninh Binh | Vinh and around |
Eating
There’s not much choice for places to eat. The smartest option is the restaurant at the Saigon Kim Lien hotel which serves well-priced Asian and European dishes. On a fine day, Noi Hoa Sen, in the middle of a lake at the west end of Phan Dinh Phung, makes a pleasant and inexpensive place to eat, while Quan Vuon Tram at 49b Le Loi is a popular