Rough Guide to Vietnam - Jan Dodd [244]
Some of the luckier victims of illegal hunting are now to be seen in the Endangered Primate Rescue Center (daily 9–11am & 1.30–4pm; www.primatecenter.org) located near the park gate. Opened in 1993, the centre not only cares for rescued animals, but also tries to rehabilitate them by releasing them into an adjacent semi-wild area. In addition, they run crucial research, conservation and breeding programmes. At any one time there may be between sixty and a hundred animals here, including Delacour’s langur, with its distinctive black body and white “shorts”, the Cat Ba, or Golden-headed langur, and the Grey-shanked douc langur, as well as various lorises and gibbons. It’s a unique opportunity to see these incredibly rare species at close quarters.
Of several walks in the park, one of the most popular starts at Car Park A, 18km from the park gate. For seven steamy kilometres (roughly 2hr) a well-trodden path winds through typical rainforest to reach the magnificent cho xanh tree, a 45-metre-high, 1000-year-old specimen of Terminalia myriocarpa – its dignity only slightly marred by a viewing platform. Dropping back down to the flat, take a left turn at the unmarked T-junction to bring you back to the road higher up at Car Park B. This second car park is also the start of the “Adventurous Trail”, an eighteen-kilometre hike through the park to Muong villages, noted for their gigantic wooden waterwheels, for which you’ll need a guide ($20 minimum) plus a night’s accommodation at the top ($5, excluding food).
Much is made of Cuc Phuong’s prehistoric caves, the most accessible of which is Dong Nguoi Xua, only 300m from the road, 7km from the park gate. Joss sticks burn in the cave mouth near three tombs estimated to be over 7000 years old but there’s nothing to see that justifies the steepish climb; if you decide to go, bring a torch for the upper reaches, and watch out for some decidedly dangerous steel staircases.
The central provinces - Part 2 | Ninh Binh and around | Cuc Phuong National Park |
Practicalities
Cuc Phuong park gate, just beyond which you’ll find the Primate Center and then the Visitors’ Centre (daily 7–11am & 1.30–4pm; 030/384 8006, dulichcucphuong@hn.vnn.vn), lies 45km north and west of Ninh Binh; head north on Highway 1 for 10km to find the sign indicating “Cuc Phuong” to the left. From the gate it’s a further 18km to the heart of the forest. There are no public buses so you’ll either have to rent a car or motorbike in Ninh Binh, or haul out there with a xe om (around $30 for the round trip). Visiting the park is also feasible as a day-trip out of Hanoi – an option offered by several tour agencies (See "Tour agents").
Entry tickets are on sale at the Visitors’ Centre (20,000đ, plus a further 10,000đ for an obligatory guide to the Primate Center) where you can also arrange accommodation (US$10 and under–30), ranging from unexpectedly comfortable, if somewhat expensive, bungalows and bamboo chalets to a basic hostel, located either at the headquarters or in the interior. Day-trips from Hanoi start at $15 per person in a minibus and include lunch and guide. Or if you are already there it is easy to organize guided treks, including overnighting in a Muong village, through the Visitors’ Centre or through hotels in Ninh Binh, such as Thuy Anh and Thanh Thuy(See " Accommodation"). Be aware that Cuc Phuong is some way above the plains and winter nights can get chilly.
The central provinces - Part 2 | Ninh Binh and around |
Van Long and Kenh Ga
TRAN ME, a town 23km from Ninh Binh on the road to Cuc Phuong, is the departure point for a couple of very different but worthwhile boat trips. It’s possible to do them both in a day, or either one can be combined with a visit to Cuc Phuong or Hoa Lu.
The more beguiling of the two takes you round the shallow, reed-filled lagoons of Van