Rough Guide to Vietnam - Jan Dodd [272]
Pane e Vino 3 Nguyen Khac Can. Popular with the local Italian community for its authentic cuisine and relaxed atmosphere. The menu ranges from pecorino salad and minestrone soup through osso bucco, roast lamb and veal saltimbocca to zabaglione and the obligatory tiramisu – not to mention the gourmet pasta and pizza dishes; count on around $15–20 per head for three courses, $3–7 for a pizza. There’s a daily set lunch ($7.50) and a popular Fri night buffet with traditional music (7pm; $7). 8am–11pm.
Quan An Ngon 18 Phan Boi Chau. See "Hanoi". A southern import, this open-air food court is a good place to sample upmarket street food in pleasant surroundings. Choose from the menu or see what takes your fancy at stalls cooking up Hanoi and Hué specialities around the garden seating area – there are more tables in the colonial villa behind. Avoid peak hours if you want to sit outside. 6.30am–10pm.
Verticale 19 Ngo Van So. Spice is the word at this converted colonial house – the laboratory-like ground floor is pungent with French chef Didier’s cooking. Possibly the most carefully constructed dishes in the country, such as ocean escabeche and swordfish with avocado, and a good location – the open top level is perfect for an evening wine. Set meals from $30. 11am–2pm, 6pm–10pm; terrace bar open til midnight.
Hanoi and around | Eating | Restaurants |
West and north of the centre
The following are all marked on the Hanoi map on See "Hanoi".
Brothers Café 26 Nguyen Thai Hoc. Through a traditional entranceway on this busy main road, you’ll find a peaceful courtyard restaurant with tables set out under the trees. They only serve buffets, which are well priced at $10 for lunch and $14 in the evening. 11.30am–2pm & 6.30–10pm.
Cafe Goethe 56 Nguyen Thai Hoc. Portions can be small for a restaurant with German pretensions, though prices are reasonable (from 70,000đ for mains) and the outdoor courtyard is a pleasant place to eat. Part of the Goethe Institute, and handy for those touring the Temple of Literature and Fine Arts Museum. 8am–10pm.
Foodshop 45 59 Truc Bach. It’s worth going out of your way to eat at this welcoming Indian restaurant in an interesting residential district overlooking Truc Bach Lake. The Indian-trained chef magics up a knockout range of curries and accompaniments, such as toothsome tandoor dishes and a cracking Kadhai chicken with big chunks of meat. Excellent value for money. 10am–10.30pm.
Ya Beirut 4/28 Xuan Dieu. Hidden down an alley opposite the Sheraton is Vietnam’s first Lebanese restaurant; prices are reasonable from 100,000đ for filling mains. The menu has English explanations for those that don’t know their hummus from their sambousik. 4–10pm, Fri, Sat & Sun til 11pm.
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Hanoi and around | Eating | Restaurants | West and north of the centre |
Hanoi’s unusual eats
In addition to the traditional favourite street food such as bun cha and pho, it’s not uncommon to find dishes featuring goat, dog, rat, snake and porcupine. Ethically some readers may find this disturbing but the eating of animals is deeply entrenched in Vietnamese culture, and an invitation to share in the feast is to be considered an honour.
If you want to sample dog meat (thit cho), a northern speciality eaten mostly in winter and never during days one to ten of the lunar calendar month, then head out of Hanoi along the Red River dyke to Nghi Tam Avenue. There are dozens of stilthouse restaurants to choose from, though Tran Muc is consistently regarded as the best; alternatively, just head for the busiest. The dog meat comes boiled (luoc) or grilled (cha nuong) and served with green banana and tofu (rua man), and is washed down with rice wine.
Le Mat snake village – 4km over Chuong Duong Bridge in the Gia Lam District – is home to a slew of snake-meat restaurants, some of which play to the crowd