Rough Guide to Vietnam - Jan Dodd [276]
Solace Off Chuong Duong Do. One of those places you never really intend to end up at, but do anyway. A nightclub on a docked Red River boat, this was once one of the most popular places around; though things have gone downhill, it can still be good fun.
Tet Bar 2a Ta Hien. Hot, smoky and packed. The service is pleasingly prompt – even when you’re desperate for a toasted sandwich at 2am – and you get a fair whack of grog for your dong.
The Cheeky Quarter 1 Ta Hien. Good music, great food and table football are on the cards here, though given the size and layout things can feel decidedly dead on an off-night.
Hanoi and around | Drinking, nightlife and entertainment |
Traditional Vietnamese entertainment
While in Hanoi most people devote an hour to the water-puppets (mua roi nuoc) – literally, puppets that dance on the water – a uniquely Vietnamese art form that originated in the Red River Delta ((See "Theatre") for more background). Traditional performances consist of short scenes depicting rural life or historic events accompanied by mood-setting musical narration. By far the most popular, and most polished, of Hanoi’s troupes is the Thang Long Water Puppet Troupe, which presents an updated repertoire and uses modern stage effects to create an engaging spectacle. They give several performances daily at the small, air-conditioned Kim Dong Theatre, 57 Dinh Tien Hoang (front rows 60,000đ, behind 40,000đ; 04/3824 9494www.thanglongwaterpuppet.org). Though these shows are largely put on for tourists, you can’t help but admire the artistry and be charmed by the puppets’ antics.
If that’s whetted your appetite, you might like to try one of the weekly cultural performances held in a beautiful traditional theatre at the Ly Club, 51 Ly Thai To (04/3936 3069; Thurs 7pm; $6). Each week the club showcases a sampler of different musical and theatrical styles, including Cheo, Chau Van and Quan Ho ((See "The traditional strand"), for more on these art forms).
Apart from the folk music groups playing at the Temple of Literature (See "The Temple of Literature") and one or two other tourist venues, at present these are the only easily accessible venues regularly showcasing Vietnamese traditional culture in Hanoi. However, the situation is evolving rapidly, so keep an eye on the English-language press, or ask around. It’s also worth dropping by the theatres to see what’s on. In the city centre, try the Hong Ha Theatre, 51 Duong Thanh (04/3825 2803), which hosts a varied programme of Hat Tuong, Cheo and Cai Luong, and the Labour Theatre (Rap Cong Nhan), 42 Trang Tien (04/3824 5707), offering traditional and contemporary music, dance and theatre.
Hanoi and around |
Shopping and markets
When it comes to shopping for crafts, silk, accessories and souvenirs, Hanoi now offers the best overall choice, quality and value for money in the country. Specialities of the region are embroideries, wood- and stone- carvings, inlay work and lacquer, and the best areas to browse are the south of the Old Quarter and the streets around St Joseph’s Cathedral. Though smarter establishments increasingly have fixed prices, at many shops you’ll be expected to bargain (see "Shopping", for some tips), and the same goes, naturally, for market stalls. Hanoi has over fifty markets, selling predominantly foodstuffs (See "Clothing, arts and crafts"); for a greater variety of wares, Cho Dong Xuan and Cho Hom sell almost everything. There’s also a weekly night market (Fri–Sun 6.30–11pm) in the Old Quarter when Hang Dao is closed to traffic. Stalls sell mainly clothes, toys and gimmicks aimed at locals, but it’s worth a wander for the atmosphere if nothing else.
Hanoi and around | Shopping and markets |
Food and flower markets
Hanoi’s most numerous – and pungent – markets are those concentrating on foodstuffs. You’ll rarely be too far from one, but among the most interesting is Cho 19–12, a traditional fresh-food market packed into two short alleys