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dental and optical care, surgery and a 24hr emergency service (04/3574 1111). Alternatively, the Family Medical Practice, Van Phuc Compound, 298 I Kim Ma, is well known for its reasonable pricing (Mon–Fri 8.30am–5.30pm, Sat 8.30am–12.30pm; 04/3843 0748, www.vietnammedicalpractice.com; $50 consultation). It has an outpatients clinic and a 24hr emergency service. International SOS, at 31 Hai Ba Trung, provides routine care (Mon–Fri 8am–7pm, Sat 8am–2pm; 04/3934 0666, www.internationalsos.com) in addition to its 24hr emergency service (04/3934 0555). Of the local hospitals, best bet is the outpatients clinic of the Viet Duc Hospital at 8 Phu Doan (Mon–Sat 8am–4.30pm; 04/3828 9852). Outside these hours, head to their emergency department in the main hospital building at 14 Phu Doan (04/3825 3531); $20 for the initial consultation.

Language courses The Vietnamese Language Centre of Hanoi Foreign Language College, 1 Pham Ngu Lao (04/3826 2468), offers individual instruction from $7 per hour. The centre also arranges student exchanges and student visas. Alternatively, Hidden Hanoi (0912 254045 or 04/3852 6295, www.hiddenhanoi.com.vn) runs a range of language classes, from the survival “Holiday Vietnamese” (90min; $15 per person) to one-week intensive courses and individual tuition.

Laundry Most hotels have a laundry service, while top hotels also offer dry cleaning. Alternatively, try one of the low-priced laundries (giat la) in the Old Quarter, such as at 9 Luong Ngoc Quyen, 20 & 59 Hang Be, 39 Ma May or along Ta Hien; the standard rate is 12,000–15,000đ per kilo for a one-day service.

Maps Hanoi city maps are available at outlets along Trang Tien, newsstands and souvenir shops around Hoan Kiem Lake. For more detailed regional and national maps, the Map & Photo Shop, 5 Hang Be, stocks by far the best selection.

Motorbike rental Outlets in the Old Quarter – especially along Ta Hien and Hang Bac – offer motorbike rental from $7 a day. Cuong’s Adventure Biking, 1 Luong Ngoc Quyen, buys, sells, rents & repairs bikes, while Nguyen Nghia (26, 31 & 42 Hang Bac & 37 Ta Hien) is recommended for reliable machines and reasonable rates. The Minsk Club (www.minskclubvietnam.com) is an invaluable source of information and occasionally arranges one-off motorbiking excursions and other events.

Newspapers and magazines A decent selection of foreign-language papers and magazines is on sale at Thang Long Bookshop (See "") and other outlets on Trang Tien. Alternatively, try the big hotels and the Press Club, 59a Ly Thai To.

Pharmacies The Hanoi French Hospital, Family Medical Practice and International SOS (See "") all have pharmacies. Of the local retail outlets, those at 2 Hang Bai and 3 Trang Thi stock a wide selection of imported medicines. Traditional medicines can be bought on Lan Ong.

Post offices The GPO occupies a whole block at 75 Dinh Tien Hoang (daily 6.30am–9pm). The main entrance leads to general mail and telephone services, while international postal services, including parcel dispatch (Mon–Fri 7.30–11.30am & 1–4.30pm), are located in the southernmost hall, with poste restante next door. Useful sub-post offices are at 66 Trang Tien, 66 Luong Van Can, 20 Bat Dan, and on the ground floor of Hanoi Towers at 49 Hai Ba Trung.

Spas and salons For pure pampering at unbeatable prices, indulge yourself at Zen Spa, Yen Phu (04/3719 9889, www.zenspa.com.vn), near West Lake in the grounds of the Thang Loi hotel. The treatments, which include facials, flower baths and foot and body massages, are derived from traditional minority therapies and take place in a replica stilthouse, complete with wooden tubs, bamboo showers and mood music. Prices start at $18 for a 20min flower bath, up to $100 for a 3hr session. In the city centre, the luxury Qi Shiseido Salon and Spa, 27 Ly Thoung Kiet (04/3824 4703, www.qispa.com.vn), also has a good reputation. Otherwise, there are plenty of smaller, cheaper salons in the Old Quarter and around the cathedral, where you’ll pay from around $7 for a foot massage and $12 for a body massage.

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