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skirts below the knee and no sleeveless tops – is required for entry to Chua Thien Chu). To the right of the pagoda as you face it a path leads steeply uphill for two kilometres (1hr) to the Perfume Pagoda, also dedicated to Quan Am. It is a hot and not particularly interesting walk up the mountain or a quick but expensive ride on the cable car (50,000đ single). The grotto reveals itself as a gaping cavern on the side of a deep depression filled with vines and trees reaching for light beneath the inscription “supreme cave under the southern sky”. A flight of 120 steps descends into the dragon’s-mouth-like entrance where gilded Buddhas emerge from dark recesses wreathed in clouds of incense – a torch comes in handy at this point.

Note that the hike is hard going and can be highly treacherous on the descent during wet weather; you’ll need good walking shoes and remember to drink plenty of water, especially in the hot summer months. It’s a good idea to bring your own, or be prepared to pay above the odds at drinks stalls along the route.

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Hanoi and around | Around Hanoi | The Perfume Pagoda |

Moving on from Hanoi

For addresses and telephone numbers of airlines and embassies in Hanoi, see "" and "Listings" respectively.

Hanoi and around | Around Hanoi | The Perfume Pagoda | Moving on from Hanoi |

Planes

Two city buses (every 15–20min between 5am and 9pm; 2hr; 5000đ) run out to the airport: the #7 departs from Kim Ma bus station, to the west of town; and the #17 from Long Bien bus station on the northern edge of the Old Quarter. Quicker and more convenient are minibuses (45min–1hr; $2), which leave every hour on the half-hour from opposite the Vietnam Airlines office on Quang Trung. A taxi costs from $15 (45min).

Hanoi and around | Around Hanoi | The Perfume Pagoda | Moving on from Hanoi |

Trains

Tickets are available in the main station building, at 120 Le Duan (daily 7.30am–12.30pm & 1–10.50pm). It’s best to make onward travel arrangements well in advance, especially for sleeper berths to Hué and Ho Chi Minh City. China-bound trains leave from the main station, but all other services to the north and east depart from a back station on Tran Quy Cap. Again, it’s wise to book tickets on the night train to Lao Cai (for Sa Pa) at least a couple of days in advance. If the station has sold out of tickets for Lao Cai or Hué, try the tour agents as they get their tickets from intermediaries who buy them in bulk. Current timetables and prices can be found on the Vietnam Railways website (www.vr.com.vn/English).

Hanoi and around | Around Hanoi | The Perfume Pagoda | Moving on from Hanoi |

Buses

Hanoi has three main long-distance bus stations: Giap Bat, 6km south of town on Giai Phong; Gia Lam station, 4km northeast on the other side of the Red River; and My Dinh, about 10km west on Pham Van Dong. Usually buses to the south leave from Giap Bat, those to the northwest leave from Giap Bat and My Dinh and those to the northeast from Gia Lam. Services to Haiphong depart from Giap Bat and Gia Lam and from the more conveniently located Luong Yen station, on the eastern edge of the French Quarter. Luong Yen is also the departure point for the direct Cat Ba service operated by the Hoang Long company. The ubiquitous open-tour buses leave from various locations every night to make the trek down to Hué and Hoi An, but it’s a long, uncomfortable and noisy journey: many wish they’d shelled out on a train or plane ticket instead.

Hanoi and around | Around Hanoi | The Perfume Pagoda | Moving on from Hanoi |

Travel to China and Laos

The China border is currently open to foreigners at Lao Cai, Dong Dang near Lang Son, and Mong Cai ((See "Onward travel to China," "Across the border to China" and "Practicalities"), respectively). Direct train services between Hanoi and Beijing (42hr) leave Hanoi on Tuesdays and Fridays at 6.30pm; note that only soft-sleeper tickets are available and that in Vietnam you can board the train only in Hanoi. You’ll need your passport with a valid Chinese visa when you buy the