Rough Guide to Vietnam - Jan Dodd [297]
Holiday View 031/388 7200, holidayviewhotel@vnn.vn. You can’t miss this fourteen-storey monstrosity sticking up to the east of the pier. It does, however, boast three-star comforts, including a restaurant and terrace café, and its rooms are tastefully decorated, if a tad bland. US$51–75
My Ngoc 031/388 8199. This big hotel to the west of the hydrofoil pier offers cheap rates for its seafront location. Ask for a room in the newer block – no balconies, but they’re bigger and better equipped. It also arranges reasonable tours. US$10 and under
Sunflower One 031/388 8429, www.sunfloweronehotel.com.vn. Spacious and smartly furnished rooms make this a good choice if you’re after a bit of comfort. Though not on the harbour, the upper floors get sea views. To find it, walk east from the pier and turn left by the Vien Dong hotel. US$21–30
Sunrise Resort 031/388 7360, catba-sunriseresort@vnn.vn. If you want to feel the sand between your toes, head for this low-rise resort hotel on Cat Co 3 beach. The burgundy-trimmed rooms all have sea-view balconies; best value are the deluxe rooms, whose “Extra King Size” beds are colossal. Hotel facilities include a restaurant, bar, pool and sauna. US$76–150
Tien Thang 031/388 8568. A spruce hotel to the east of the pier; its rooms are not huge, but come with TVs, a/c and phones as standard; some also have balconies. US$11–20
Ha Long Bay and the northern seaboard | Cat Ba Island | Cat Ba Town |
Eating
The number of restaurants on Cat Ba is gradually expanding, with some offering tasty food – especially seafood – at reasonable prices. For a real challenge, order one of the huge crabs on display in some restaurants, and crack your way through to its succulent meat. As usual, you’ll find food stalls in and around the market, and there’s a sprinkling of places serving breakfast pho soups up the road from the post office. The floating restaurants in Cat Ba harbour and off Ben Beo tourist wharf seem a nice idea but there are so many reports of people getting ripped off they’re best avoided. Coracles ferry you out to them for free (or, rather, included in the bill) if you want to try your luck; the problem is, once you’re out there you’re a bit stuck.
Cat Tieu A floating restaurant without the possibility of extortion, since it’s connected to the Cat Co 3 road by gangplank – a rickety adventure in itself. The menu is extensive but you may need a few goes before landing on something that they actually have; recommended are the huge clam and shoot soups (25,000đ).
Green Mango Cat Ba’s classiest restaurant offers a chilled atmosphere to match fusion dishes such as black barramundi with braised banana, and pan-roast salmon with wasabi mashed potato. Prices are a little steep – at least 130,000đ for a full meal – but since some of the cheaper dishes could be better prepared it’s worth splashing out on something special.
Hoang Y Friendly local joint with a well-deserved reputation for serving ultra-fresh seafood at reasonable prices; shrimp with lemon and garlic hits the spot, or try whole steamed fish with lashings of ginger. Copycat restaurants with similar names have opened, so make sure you pick the original: it’s at #197 on the harbour road.
Huu Dung Also known as the Coca Cola, this little stilthouse restaurant is an old favourite for its warm welcome and broad menu of soups, rice and noodle dishes and seafood. It’s up the road past the Sunflower One hotel.
The Noble House Though quality is on the wane, this is still the place to head for hearty Western breakfasts, pizzas, pasta and other comfort foods, or you can opt for local dishes, including fresh seafood. Work it off afterwards playing pool or table football in the upstairs bar.
Phuong Phuong Cheap prices, decent food and more than usually friendly staff make this a popular option on the harbour front. It serves a broad range of standard Vietnamese