Rough Guide to Vietnam - Jan Dodd [299]
Ha Long Bay and the northern seaboard | Ha Long City |
Bai Chay
Neon signs and flashing fairy lights blaze out at night along the Bai Chay waterfront, advertising north Vietnam’s most developed resort, with shoulder-to-shoulder hotels and a picturesque backdrop of wooded hills. While Bai Chay is swamped in summer with local holidaymakers and tourists from China, out of season it’s a pretty sleepy place and decidedly less sleazy. Apart from strolling the seafront boulevard and taking a quick look at its very indifferent beach, Bai Chay has nothing to distract you from the main business of touring Ha Long Bay. If you’re staying here, you can take a turn through the night market, a somewhat desultory array of overpriced souvenirs, on the seafront at the junction of Ha Long Avenue and Vuon Dao, the budget-hotel strip. More interesting is the Royal Amusement Park (6–10.30pm; 100,000đ), further west along the front. Of various entertainments on offer, best are the water-puppet performances and the “cultural shows” offering a jazzed-up sampler of “traditional” song and dance. The park also boasts a surprisingly well-presented museum of Vietnamese art and history.
Ha Long Bay and the northern seaboard | Ha Long City | Bai Chay |
Arrival and information
Most foreign visitors to Bai Chay stay only as long as it takes to board their Ha Long Bay junk, which leave from the tourist wharf two kilometres west of town (See "Boat tours and charters"). Frequent bus services from Hanoi and Haiphong to Bai Chay pull in at a bus station west of the centre (30,000đ by xe om). Although buses from Mong Cai drop you in Hong Gai (See "Hong Gai"), Mong Cai hydrofoils dock at a pier near the Halong Plaza. There are two departures daily to Mong Cai, at 8am and 1pm (3hr; $15); buy tickets from the Pearl Cape (Mui Ngoc) office (033/384 7888) just across the road from the pier – remember to take your passport.
For changing money, Vietcombank, opposite the Royal Amusement Park at the west end of Ha Long Avenue, handles all major currencies and traveller’s cheques as well as credit card advances. There’s also a 24-hour ATM here, and a more convenient one beside the entrance to the Heritage Halong hotel. The post office is at the bottom of Vuon Dao, with an internet café next door.
Ha Long Bay and the northern seaboard | Ha Long City | Bai Chay |
Accommodation
Despite a continuing increase in the number of hotels in Bai Chay, there are still temporary room shortages, particularly during the Vietnamese summer season (June to early Sept) and holiday weekends. The budget hotels are located along Vuon Dao, while Ha Long Avenue is home to the bigger, swankier establishments.
Ha Long 1 Ha Long Ave 033/384 6320, 033/384 6318. This converted French villa built in 1936 has seen better days, but still has more atmosphere than most Bai Chay hotels. Rooms are furni-shed to a reasonable standard; the best are on the third floor, with big balconies overlooking the bay. US$31–50
Halong Plaza 8 Ha Long Ave 033/384 5810, www.halongplaza.com. A smart four-star hotel offering all the usual upmarket facilites. The rooms are a good size and well equipped, with wi-fi; some command panoramic sweeps of the bay. Check their website for good-value online deals. US$76–150
Novotel Ha Long Ave 033/384 8108, www.novotelhalongbay.com. One of the most immaculately designed hotels in Vietnam – plush carpets lead to subtly lit and delicately scented rooms where you can see the outside world from every shower cubicle. The infinity pool outside is another nice touch, and the onsite restaurant serves excellent food. US$76–150
Thong Nhat 1 Ha Long Ave 033/384 6145. This smart new hotel is one of the few catering to the middle market. It offers a dozen or so rooms with balconies and a good standard of equipment, if slightly overpriced. US$11–20
Viet Hoa 35 Vuon Dao 033/384 6035. One of the better budget hotels on Vuon Dao, this is a clean and welcoming