Rough Guide to Vietnam - Jan Dodd [301]
Ha Long Bay and the northern seaboard | Ha Long City | Hong Gai |
Accommodation and eating
Hotels in Hong Gai may be basic, but standards are improving and the atmosphere of the town has a certain charm. There are a number of acceptable options along Le Thanh Tong, of which the best are grouped around a square near the junction with Long Tien. Here, the Ngoc Chau, 15b Cay Thap (033/362 0499; US$11–20), and Thuy Nga, 11 Cay Thap (033/362 2675; US$11–20), are newish places with a range of good-value rooms. West along Hang Noi, you’ll find another clutch of slightly older budget hotels, of which the Phuong Dung at no. 78 (033/382 8952; US$10 and under) and the Hai Van at no. 76 (033/382 6279, 033/382 7092; US$10 and under) are clean and welcoming.
The best eating in Hong Gai is at the com binh danh outlets on the opposite side of the square from the Ngoc Chau hotel. Though there’s little to choose between them, Phuong Thao, on the corner at 16 Doan Thi Nien, has a good reputation. You’ll also find food stalls round the market, where ingredients come fresh from fishing boats in the harbour next door. For something smarter, try the surprisingly swish second-floor restaurant at Noi Nho, 269 Le Thanh Tong, which offers everything from sandwiches to snails, but is best for seafood. Finally, the little juice bar Sinh To Kieu My, at 2 Le Quy Don, whisks up some mean fresh-fruit shakes.
Ha Long Bay and the northern seaboard |
Bai Tu Long
East of Ha Long Bay, stretching up towards the Chinese border, lies an attractive area of islands, known as Bai Tu Long or “Children of the Dragon”. Some of the larger islands feature important forest reserves and are home to a number of rare species, such as the pale-capped pigeon, while dugong (sea cows) inhabit the surrounding waters. In 2001, Bai Tu Long National Park was created to protect the 15,700 hectares of marine and island habitat.
Though there are few specific sights in the area, and consequently little tourist development, tour boats from Bai Chay and Cat Ba occasionally venture out this way, and the odd intrepid tourist heads as far as Quan Lan Island, a long skinny island on the outer fringes of the bay. Although much talk of developing the larger islands in Bai Tu Long as eco-tourism destinations, so far only Quan Lan has seen any development and even this is fairly minimal. The island’s main attractions are the empty, sandy and relatively clean beaches fringing its east coast. A cycle ride on its only road makes a pleasant jaunt through rice paddies and over the dunes to the north tip. Otherwise, there’s not much to do apart from enjoying simply being off the tourist trail.
Daily boats to Quan Lan leave from Hong Gai’s Ben Tau pier at 1.30pm (4hr 30min; 130,000đ); xe om and xe may (three-wheeler motorbike taxis) wait at Quan Lan pier, on the island’s southern tip, to take people three kilometres north to the main village (15,000đ). Here you’ll find a post office – spot the radio mast – and, opposite it, the friendly Ngan Ha Hotel (033/387 7296; US$10 and under), offering simple but good-value accommodation, as well as meals and bike rental. The other places to stay are spread out along the beach on the island’s southeast coast. The smartest is the ATI Resort (033/387 7471, 033/387 7257; US$21–30), signed off to the right 1500m from the ferry pier, with comfortable but overpriced wooden cabins – boasting fans and hot water – scattered among the dunes. You can also rent bikes here, and there’s a restaurant, though you’re better off eating at the com pho places in the village. Very basic wooden cabins, albeit with bathrooms and electricity, are available at Quan Hai (0913 388632, quanhai_baitulong@yahoo.com; US$10 and under) at the southern end of the beach; phone in advance and someone will come to meet you. Basic meals are available. Note that