Rough Guide to Vietnam - Jan Dodd [303]
With the growth in tourist traffic across the border, there’s now more choice of accommodation in Mong Cai. For best all-round value, you can’t beat the bright, well-scrubbed rooms at the Truong Minh, 36 Trieu Duong (033/388 3368, 033/388 6048; US$10 and under), mid-way between the border and the central market. Further east along the same street, the Thanh Tam, 71 Trieu Duong (033/388 1373; US$10 and under), is another good option, or try the Le Thanh, 55 Chu Van An (033/377 0181; US$10 and under), on a backstreet south of the central market. Finally, close to the border gate, the Hoang Hiep, 12 Hoang Quoc Viet (033/388 7999, 033/377 8666; US$11–20), offers a touch more style, although rooms are a little pricey for what you get, and at weekends it may be full with Vietnamese tour groups.
Eating is more of a hit-and-miss affair, as few places have menus and almost no one speaks English. The streets near the central market turn into open-air restaurants in the evening, each stall thronged with customers. One friendly place is the Minh Thuy, 70 Trieu Duong, the best of several com binh dan joints near the Thanh Tam hotel. If you want to get in off the street, head for the Lang Tu restaurant, east along Hung Vuong from the central roundabout. It serves inexpensive meals including do-it-yourself barbecues and good seafood.
Ha Long Bay and the northern seaboard |
Travel details
Ha Long Bay and the northern seaboard | Travel details |
Trains
Haiphong to: Hanoi (2 daily; 2hr–2hr 20min).
Ha Long Bay and the northern seaboard | Travel details |
Buses
Bus stations are gradually becoming more organized, with ticket desks and scheduled departures. However, it is still almost impossible to give the frequency with which buses run because of the large number of private minibuses that ply more popular routes, and depart only when they have enough passengers to make the journey worthwhile. Journey times can also vary; figures below show the normal length of time you can expect to take by public bus.
Bai Chay to: Haiphong (3hr); Hanoi (4hr).
Haiphong to: Bai Chay (3hr); Hanoi (2hr 30min); Ninh Binh (4–5hr).
Hong Gai to: Mong Cai (3hr 30min).
Mong Cai to: Hong Gai (3hr 30min).
Ha Long Bay and the northern seaboard | Travel details |
Ferries
Cat Ba to: Haiphong (2 daily; 2–3hr); Hong Gai (1 daily; 2hr).
Haiphong to: Cat Ba (2 daily; 2–3hr).
Hong Gai to: Cat Ba (1 daily; 2hr 30min).
Ha Long Bay and the northern seaboard | Travel details |
Hydrofoils
Bai Chay to: Mong Cai (2 daily; 3hr).
Cat Ba to: Haiphong (1–4 daily; 45min); Hong Gai (1–4 daily; 30min).
Haiphong to: Cat Ba (1–4 daily; 45min); Mong Cai (1 daily; 4hr–4hr 30min).
Mong Cai to: Bai Chay (2 daily; 3hr); Haiphong (1 daily; 4hr–4hr 30min).
Ha Long Bay and the northern seaboard | Travel details |
Flights
Haiphong to: Ho Chi Minh City (1 daily; 2hr).
The far north
As Vietnam fans out above Hanoi towards the Chinese and Laos borders, it attains its maximum width of 600km, the majority of it a mountainous buffer zone wrapped around the Red River Delta. Much of the region is wild and inaccessible, yet it contains some of Vietnam’s most awe-inspiring scenery, sparsely populated by a fascinating mosaic of ethnic minorities. Most impressive on both counts is the northwest region where the country’s highest mountain range and its tallest peak, Fan Si Pan, rise abruptly from the Red River Valley. Within the shadow of Fan Si Pan lies Sa Pa, an easily accessible former French hill station, famous for its minority peoples and for its superb scenery with opportunities for trekking out to isolated hamlets. Nearby, Bac Ha has one of the most colourful of all minority groups in the form of the Flower Hmong, whose markets are great fun. The attractions of these two towns and the historic battlefield