Rough Guide to Vietnam - Jan Dodd [311]
Le Pho Pham Xuan Huan. Slurp down Sa Pa’s best pho in a pleasant, orange-trimmed setting; 32,000đ may seem a steep price for this simple dish, but cardamom and aniseed are among the more adventurous ingredients thrown into the mix.
Mountain View Cau May. One of the most scenic spots in Sa Pa, the outdoor area is the perfect place to sample traditional north Vietnamese fare and look out over the valley. The huge Lao Cai beers they sell also make it a jovial choice for when the sun has set.
Nature View Fan Si Pan. You could pay for the views alone and still feel that you’d got value for money; throw in a selection of reasonably-priced Vietnamese and Western dishes and it’s a good deal. Pizzas, however, are better at Viet Phap Y across the road.
Red Dao House Thac Bac. Too twee for some but there’s a certain kitsch appeal to this large and slightly pricey restaurant; the menu has plenty of authentic Sa Pa cuisine, and as the name suggests, staff are all Red Dao.
Sapa Rooms Fan Si Pan. You could spend the whole day here, grazing on home-made muffins and carrot juice for breakfast, awesome fries for lunch, and fish fried with coriander and chilli for dinner. Prices are very reasonable, and many customers return again and again.
Tavan Victoria hotel. The service and quality is what you’d expect from the Victoria. Specializing in French cuisine with locally grown produce, the meals are delicious but with a price to match. Also offers an excellent breakfast buffet that is perfect fuel for early morning treks.
The Red Dragon Muong Hoa. A slice of England in Sa Pa. Run by English expat John and his wife, the effort that goes into the food (think home-made sausages and shepherds’ pie) make this a great option. They also have a good range of beers in the bar upstairs, where travellers swap stories till the midnight closing time.
Viet Emotion Cau May. Spanish tapas and a healthy range of cocktails are on the menu at this two-floor gem; try the bu nuong ngu vi, pork grilled with cardamom, or start the day with a filling set breakfast.
The far north | The northwest | Sa Pa and around |
Listings
Banks and money There are several ATMs dotted around Sa Pa, and the Agribank (Mon–Fri 7.30–11am & 1.30–5pm) on Cau May can exchange cash and traveller’s cheques.
Internet Most guesthouses have internet access.
Motorbikes & jeeps Xe om can be arranged through your guesthouse; self-drive is available (from $5 per day) but you need to be an experienced biker to tackle the stony, mountain tracks; make sure you test the bike for faults before leaving town. It’s also possible to hire your own jeep and driver (around $30 per day) via guesthouses, depending on availability, but if you want to tackle the whole northwestern circuit you’ll find cheaper long-term prices in Hanoi.
Post office Ham Rong (Mon–Fri 8–11.30am & 1–4pm). Service is poor and mail delivery times are exceptionally long. Hanoi is a better option.
The far north | The northwest | Sa Pa and around |
Around Sa Pa
There are several Hmong villages within easy walking distance of town, though if you are heading to the more remote villages, it’s strongly advisable to go accompanied by a local guide. All hotels and tour agents in Sa Pa can organize treks to all the villages below, with prices starting at around $15 per day: for around an extra $10 a day, you can include home-stay accommodation in a village. When booking a guide locally (see "Accommodation" for a couple of reliable outfits), make sure you get one from Sa Pa and not from Hanoi, as only a local will speak the dialects necessary to communicate within the villages. Always wear strong shoes, carry water, waterproofs and a basic medical kit.
The far north | The northwest | Sa Pa and around | Around Sa Pa |
Cat Cat and Sin Chai
Since it’s just 3km from Sa Pa, most people walk independently to the Black