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a reasonably good road. Other than the market there’s nothing at all to see in Can Cau, but the ride, across a high, empty range with panoramic views on either side, is glorious. To get there, simply follow the main road north out of town the whole way. You can go there on a tour ($15 per person in a group of four), but it’s not really necessary if you can ride a motorbike, as the market is right by the main road. The trusty xe om is another option. Further north of Can Cau, the largely Hmong town of SIMA CAI has its own ethnically diverse Sunday market, attended by Flower Hmong, Nung and Black Dao: it’s best visited on a guided tour.

East of Bac Ha, the village of THAI GIANG PHO, home to Hmong, Tay and Fula people, is a six-hour round trip by motorbike or jeep from town, for which you’ll need a guide, but be prepared for some rough overland driving.

The Sao Mai and Cong Fu hotels organize trips to all the above villages, as well as to the Tuesday flower market at COC LY, where the Flower Hmong women stand side by side selling carefully selected flowers to neighbouring minority groups. The latter trip includes transport by jeep and a boat trip down the Blue River Valley and costs $18 per person. There are also possibilities of two- and three-day trips costing $15 per person per day, including overnight stays in the minority villages.

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The far north | The northwest | Bac Ha and around | The villages around Bac Ha |

Moving on from Bac Ha

From Bac Ha, it’s possible to go directly to Ha Giang(See "Ha Giang and around") and continue exploring the little-known northeast, though for this you will need your own transport. Head back down out of the hills towards Lao Cai, but after crossing the bridge over the Chay River, turn left on Highway 70 and follow it about 40km to Pho Rang. This is a good place for a break as there are reasonable food stalls just beyond the bridge on the left and a lively market off to the right a little further down the main street. Turn left just before the bridge and follow Highway 279 to Viet Quang, then left again on Highway 2, which takes you into Ha Giang. The trip takes about six hours, depending on road conditions. Another option, though only possible in good weather and with good wheels, is to head directly east to Viet Quang via Xin Man and Huong Su Phi: the road is awful but the views are nothing short of spectacular.

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The far north | The northwest |

West to Dien Bien Phu

West of Sa Pa the road climbs over the Hoang Lien Son range: the going is rough all the way to the 2100m-high Tram Tom Pass (“Heaven’s Gate”), which marks the boundary with Lai Chau province, but once over the top you’ll have a smooth and incredibly scenic glide down. The road hugs the wall of an immense valley into the most sparsely populated region of Vietnam’s far north: look out for tumbling waterfalls in the upper reaches, while on lower ground there’s a colourful mosaic of ethnic groups. The most interesting of these are the Lu, who number less than 5,000 across Lai Chau, Laos, northern Thailand and the Chinese province of Yunnan. It’s possible to stay at a Lu village, though you’ll need a permit: this can be organized by travel agencies in Sa Pa (See "Accommodation"), or at the security bureau in Tam Duong (look for a lemon-coloured building in the centre of town). The Lu women often wear distinctive triangular hair clasps, and Lu society runs on extremely traditional lines, so if you do visit, stick to your most unobtrusive behaviour.

The far north | The northwest | West to Dien Bien Phu |

Lai Chau

About two hours’ drive from Sa Pa, the town of LAI CHAU (not to be confused with the former Lai Chau now called Muong Lay), is getting uglier by the minute despite being surrounded by immaculate mountain scenery. Its main interest to travellers is as a base to visit the Monday market of great ethnic variety at Pa So Village (formerly Phong Tho), 30km further west. Lai Chau has only a handful of hotels, and they’re all somewhat overpriced, except the Muong Thanh (023/379 0888;