Rough Guide to Vietnam - Jan Dodd [325]
Highlights of the northeast are its rural landscapes, from traditional scenes of green-engulfed villages to dramatic limestone country, typified by pockets of cultivation squeezed among rugged outcrops whose lower slopes are wrinkled with terraces. However, population densities are still low, leaving huge forest reserves and high areas of wild, open land inhabited by ethnic minorities practising swidden farming (See "Vietnam’s ethnic minorities"). While many have adopted a Vietnamese way of life, in remoter parts the minorities remain culturally distinct – particularly evident when local markets, their dates traditionally set by the lunar calendar, are in full swing.
The far north | The northeast |
Ha Giang and around
HA GIANG is the capital of the north’s most remote and least-visited province, where Vietnam’s border juts into China and almost reaches the Tropic of Cancer. Until the early 1990s, this region was the scene of fierce fighting between Vietnam and China, and it is still considered a “sensitive area”, though its inhabitants nowadays are peaceful and welcoming. The town itself has a few attractions, but the main reason for coming is to head on to MEO VAC and DONG VAN, both set in valleys surrounded by forbidding peaks and connected by a hair-raising road with spectacular views. The round trip from Ha Giang is about 300km and takes two full days of driving along narrow, bumpy roads, which may become impassable during the rainy season. This border area is home to several minority groups, including the White Hmong and the Lo Lo, the latter having only a few thousand members; most towns along the route have a Sunday market attended by villagers from the surrounding valleys, where you’re likely to be the only foreigner.
One of the reasons for this lack of visitors is that foreigners currently must obtain a permit ($10) from the police or a tour agent to travel anywhere outside Ha Giang town. As the permit costs the same price for any length of time, you should apply for as many days as possible, as you won’t be able to extend it and, given the beauty of the area, you may well want to. Previously foreigners were required to hire a guide, too, though this is currently no longer the case: however, as the situation is likely to change further, it’s essential to make enquiries before heading to the area.
The far north | The northeast | Ha Giang and around |
The Town
Ha Giang is a sizeable town, and though its buildings are of no great architectural merit, its setting is very impressive, with the tall Mo Neo and Cam mountains crowding it in. The ochre waters of the Lo River carve southward through the centre of town, and traffic is thick on the bridges that connect the west and east districts. The town’s market is located in a purpose-built hall just northeast of the northern bridge, and is a frenzy of activity in the early morning when members of minority groups can often be seen. If you plan to go to Dong Van, however, you’re likely to see more authentic markets along the way. The Ha Giang museum (daily 8–11am & 2–4pm, with late opening Wed, Sat & Sun 7–9pm; free), is just west of the northern bridge. It’s well worth a visit to get a preview of the outfits of the many different minority groups who inhabit the region, as well as to see artefacts such as bronze drums and ancient axe-heads that have been unearthed by digs in the region. Archeological evidence shows that there has been a settlement here for tens of thousands of years, and the region seemingly flourished during the Bronze Age judging by the number of beautifully designed drums that have been found.
The far north | The northeast | Ha Giang and around |
Practicalities