Rough Guide to Vietnam - Jan Dodd [366]
Until recently there was no written Hmong language, but a strong oral tradition of folk songs, riddles and proverbs. Perhaps the Hmong are best known, however, for their handicrafts, particularly weaving hemp and cotton cloth which is then coloured with indigo dyes. Many Hmong women, and some men, still wear traditional indigo apparel and chunky silver jewellery. The main subgroups are White, Red, Green, Black and Flower Hmong; though the origin of the names is unknown, there are marked differences in dialect and social customs as well as dress and hairstyle, especially among the women.
Vietnam’s ethnic minorities | Minorities in the northern highlands |
Dao
The Dao (pronounced “Zao”) ethnic minority is incredibly diverse in all aspects of life: social and religious practices, architecture, agriculture and dress. For several centuries, small, localized groups have settled in the northern border region after crossing over from China. Dao people now number approximately six hundred thousand in Vietnam, with related groups in Laos, Thailand and China.
Long ago the Dao adopted the Chinese writing system and have a substantial literary tradition. One popular legend records the origin of the twelve Dao clans: Ban Ho, a powerful dog of five colours, killed an enemy general and was granted the hand of a princess in marriage, who gave birth to twelve children. Ban Ho is worshipped by the Dao and the five colours of Dao embroidery represent their ancestor. The Dao boast a particularly striking traditional dress, the most eye-catching element of which is a bulky red turban. Dao people live at all altitudes, their house style and agricultural techniques varying accordingly. While groups living at lower levels are relatively prosperous, growing rice and raising livestock, those in the high, rocky mountains live in considerable poverty.
Vietnam’s ethnic minorities | Minorities in the northern highlands |
Giay
The Giay (pronounced “Zay”) are a relatively small minority group, with a population of around fifty thousand, living at high altitudes in Lao Cai, Lai Chau and Ha Giang provinces. Traditional Giay society is feudal, with a strict demarcation between the local aristocracy and the peasant classes. All villagers work the communal lands, living in closely knit villages of stilthouses. A few Giay women still wear the traditional style of dress, distinguished by the highly coloured, circular panel sewn around the collar and a shirt-fastening on the right shoulder; the shirt itself is often of bright green, pink or blue. On formal occasions, women may also wear a chequered turban.
Vietnam’s ethnic minorities |
Minorities in the central highlands
Nearly all minority groups living in the central highlands are indigenous peoples; most are matrilineal societies with a strong emphasis on community life and with some particularly complex burial rites. Catholic missionaries enjoyed considerable success in the central highlands, establishing a mission at Kon Tum in the mid-nineteenth century; then early in the twentieth century Protestantism was also introduced to the region. Most converts came from among the E De and Bahnar, though other groups have also incorporated Christian practices into their traditional belief systems and the number of converts has been increasing in recent years. Likewise, Vietnamese influence has been stronger here than in northern Vietnam, while the American War caused severe disruption. Nevertheless, their cultures have been sufficiently strong to resist complete assimilation. For how much longer is a matter of debate, as thousands of lowland Viets, plus significant