Rough Guide to Vietnam - Jan Dodd [88]
Inevitably in such uncertain times, Cao Dai developed a political agenda. Strongly anti-French during World War II, subsequently the Cao Dai militia turned against the Viet Minh, with whom they fought, using French arms, in the French War. By the mid-Fifties, the area around Tay Ninh was a virtual fiefdom of Cao Dai followers. In The Quiet American, Graham Greene describes the Cao Dai militia as a “private army of 25,000 men, armed with mortars made out of the exhaust-pipes of old cars, allies of the French who turned neutral at the moment of danger”. Even then, however, they were feuding with the rival Hoa Hao sect, and in a few years their power had waned.
Post-liberation, the Communist government confiscated all Cao Dai land, though it was returned ten years later. Today, the religion continues to thrive in its twin power bases of Tay Ninh District and the Mekong Delta.
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Ho Chi Minh City and around | Around Ho Chi Minh City | The Cao Dai Holy See at Tay Ninh | The Great Temple |
Services
Services are held daily at 6am, noon, 6pm and midnight. Tours usually arrange their visit to coincide with the midday one. Though other times are inconvenient, they do offer the opportunity to concentrate on what’s happening without the accompanying roadshow of hundreds of flashing cameras. Visitors are shepherded upstairs and past the traditional band that plays behind the front balcony, and on into the gods, from where they can look down on proceedings and take photographs. Most worshippers dress in white robes, though some dress in yellow, blue and red, to signify the Buddhist, Taoist and Confucian elements of Cao Dai. Priests don square hats emblazoned with the Divine Eye. At the start of a service, worshippers’ heads nod, like a field of corn in the breeze, in time to the clanging of a gong. Then a haunting, measured chanting begins, against the insect whine of the string band playing its own time. As prayers and hymns continue, incense, flowers, alcohol and tea are offered up to the Supreme Being.
Ho Chi Minh City and around |
Travel details
Ho Chi Minh City and around | Travel details |
Trains
Ho Chi Minh City to: Da Nang (7 daily; 15–22hr); Dieu Tri (7 daily; 11–13hr); Hanoi (6 daily; 30–41hr); Hué (7 daily; 21–23hr); Muong Man (10 daily; 4–5hr); Nha Trang (9 daily; 9–10hr); Ninh Binh (4daily; 34–37hr); Quang Ngai (5 daily; 13–16hr); Thap Cham (6 daily; 6–7hr); Vinh (6 daily; 29–33hr).
Ho Chi Minh City and around | Travel details |
Buses
Bus stations are gradually becoming more organized, with ticket desks and scheduled departures. However, it is still almost impossible to give the frequency with which buses run because of the large number of private minibuses that ply more popular routes, and depart only when they have enough passengers to make the journey worthwhile. It’s advisable to start your journey early – most long-distance departures are between 5am and 9am, and few run after midday. Journey times can also vary; figures below show the normal length of time you can expect to take by public bus.
Ho Chi Minh City to: Buon Ma Thuot (7hr); Ca Mau (8hr 30min); Can Tho (4hr); Chau Doc (6hr); Da Lat (7hr); Da Nang (21hr); Hanoi (41hr); Ha Tien (9hr); Hué (25hr); My Tho (2hr); Nha Trang (10hr); Phan Thiet (4–5hr); Qui Nhon (13hr); Vung Tau (2hr).
Ho Chi Minh City and around | Travel details |
Hydrofoils and boats
Ho Chi Minh City to: Can Tho (1 daily; 4hr); Vung Tau (about 12 daily; 1hr 15min).
Ho Chi Minh City and around | Travel details |
Flights
Ho Chi Minh City to: Buon Ma Thuot (1–2 daily; 1hr); Con Dao (1–2 daily; 1hr); Da Lat (2 daily; 50min); Da Nang (5 daily; 1hr 10min); Haiphong (2 daily; 2hr); Hanoi (12–14 daily; 2hr); Hué (3–4 daily; 1hr 40min); Nha Trang (3 daily; 1hr 10min); Phu Quoc (5–6 daily; 1hr); Plei Ku (1 daily; 1hr 15min); Qui Nhon (1–2 daily; 1hr 10min).
The Mekong Delta
Touring the orchards, paddy fields and swamplands of the Mekong