Salted_ A Manifesto on the World's Most Essential Mineral, With Recipes - Mark Bitterman [106]
Pack the salted cabbage with its liquid in a clean 6-quart or 2-gallon crock. Pack down firmly but not too hard.
Trim any tough spines from the reserved cabbage leaves and cut them into sections that fit easily into the mouth of the crock or jars. Cover the salted cabbage with the reserved leaves; if you don’t have any, cover with a clean white cloth such as cheesecloth or muslin. Cover the cabbage with a plate that fits inside the crock and weight down with a sterilized quart jar filled with water, or with a large plastic bag filled with water and one tablespoon of salt (that way if the bag leaks, it doesn’t water down the brine). The briny juice exuded by the cabbage should entirely cover the cabbage and the plate to prevent molding. Some cabbage, particularly when it isn’t very fresh, may not produce enough moisture to immediately cover everything. If so, every few hours press gently down on the weight until the moisture exuded by the cabbage immerses it fully. After one day, if you still need more brine, dissolve 1 tablespoon of salt in 4 cups of water and use to top up the crock.
Cover the crock with a loose-fitting lid or clean heavy cloth. Set aside at room temperature, 68° to 72°F. Check every day to make sure mold is not growing on the surface. If mold appears, skim off as much as possible. This affects only the surface; the cabbage immersed in the liquid below is not affected by the mold. In 5 to 7 days the cabbage should be bubbly; in my experience, if the fermenting cabbage can do something, it will. After a week, move the crock to a cooler place (about 55°F), such as a cellar or cool outbuilding. Fermentation may take up to 5 weeks, depending on temperature. Begin tasting the cabbage after 2 weeks. When it is sour enough for you, transfer the sauerkraut from the crock to clean glass jars, seal, and refrigerate. The sealed and refrigerated sauerkraut will keep for about six months.
SERVING IDEA: To make apple-bacon sauerkraut, cook chopped bacon until crisp. Add chopped onion to the pan and sauté until tender. Add a clove of chopped garlic and some apple slices and sauté briefly. Add the sauerkraut and heat through; finish with a little apple cider for sweetness.
FERMENTATION AND PICKLING
Curing vegetables in salt encourages fermentation, which in turn produces food-preserving acids. Plant foods are filled with benign bacteria, which grow under the right conditions and suppress the development of other bacteria that cause spoilage and disease. The good bacteria do this by being the first to metabolize the sugar in the vegetable, cutting off the food supply for the bacteria that cause spoilage. For example, cabbage contains Coliform bacteria that produce acid that creates favorable conditions for Leuconostoc bacteria, which in turn produce acids favorable for Lactobacillus. A bunch of antibacterial substances are produced along the way—notably lactic acid, carbon dioxide, and alcohol—that impede the growth of organisms that would otherwise rot the food. Not only do the fermenting bacteria leave most of the plant’s nutritional substances intact, including fiber and Vitamin C, but the process of fermentation also increases the amount of B vitamins, adding aroma and tang. Although most any fruit or vegetable can be fermented, among the most common are olives, cucumbers, cabbage, lemons, and radishes.
GRILLING
Chaos is a friend of mine —Bob Dylan
Cooking foods over an open fire is ancient in the extreme, but so is salting that food. Both grilling and salting were certainly among the first innovations separating us from the animals. Fire plus food plus salt remains one of the most successful recipes in human history.
There are two rules for salting grilled meat: 1. If you want a thick crust on the meat and a subtler experience of the salt’s flavor, salt about thirty minutes before grilling. 2. If you prefer the flavor and texture of salt on the surface of meat, salt just before grilling.
Many cooks use kosher salt on grilled meats. Unfortunately, the moment koshering crystals affix themselves