San Francisco - Alison Bing [115]
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EMBARCADERO & THE PIERS
The piers used to be the seafood stop of last resort for picky locals who prefer their Dungeness crab with sides besides fries, and chowder without the sourdough bowl, but now the waterfront is regaining its gourmet footing along the Embarcadero. The temple to local food known as the Ferry Building Marketplace puts several foodie shrines under one roof, and features high-class take-out and a bustling farmers market. Swanky celebrity-chef eateries now shore up the waterfront alongside diners and the seafood shacks favored by sailors for a century.
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PRICE GUIDE
In this chapter, the following price symbols apply, exclusive of drink, tax and tip:
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FISHERMAN’S WHARF
GARY DANKO Map Californian $$$
415-749-2060; www.garydanko.com; 800 North Point St; dinner; 10, 19, 30, 47; Powell-Hyde
Smoked-glass windows prevent passersby from tripping over their tongues at the sight of exquisite roasted lobster with trumpet mushrooms, blushing duck breast with rhubarb compote, trios of crème brÛlée and the lavish cheese cart. Take your server’s seasonal recommendations of two to six small courses for $44 to $98, and prepare to be impressed. Gary Danko has won multiple James Beard Awards for providing an impeccable dining experience, from inventive salad courses like oysters with caviar and lettuce cream to the casually charming server who hands you tiny chocolate cakes as a parting gift.
FORBES ISLAND Map Grill $$$
415-951-4900; www.forbesisland.com; Pier 41; 5-10pm Wed-Sun; 15, 37, 49, F;
No man is an island, except for an eccentric millionaire named Forbes Thor Kiddoo. A miniature lighthouse, thatched hut, waterfall, sandy beach and swaying palms transformed his moored houseboat into the Hearst Castle of the bay. Today this bizarre domicile is a restaurant strong on grilled meats and atmosphere. Reserve in advance and catch boat shuttles from Pier 39; landlubbers dining below deck should bring their motion-sickness meds.
CROWN & CRUMPET Map Cafe $$
415-771-4252; www.crownandcrumpet.com; 207 Ghirardelli Sq; 10am-9pm Mon-Fri, 9am-9pm Sat, 9am-6pm Sun; 10, 19, 30, 47; Powell-Hyde;
Designer style and rosy cheer usher teatime into the 21st century: girlfriends rehash hot dates over scones with strawberries and champagne, and dads and daughters clink porcelain teacups with crooked pinkies and 38 kinds of tea. Reservations recommended on weekends.
GHIRARDELLI ICE CREAM Map Ice Cream $
415-474-3938; www.ghirardellisq.com; 900 North Point St, West Plaza; 10am-11pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; 10, 19, 30, 47; Powell-Hyde;
Gee, Mr Ghirardelli, you sure make a swell sundae. Chocolate milkshakes are for sharing and making moony eyes over, and the legendary Cable Car comes with Rocky Road ice cream, marshmallow topping and enough hot fudge to pave Jack Kerouac Alley.
IN-N-OUT BURGER Map Burgers $
800-786-1000; www.in-n-out.com; 333 Jefferson St; 10:30am-1am Sun-Thu, to 1:30am Fri & Sat; 10, 30, 47, J; Powell-Hyde;
Gourmet burgers have taken SF by storm, but In-N-Out has had a good thing going for 60 years: prime chuck beef it processes itself, plus fries and shakes made with ingredients you can pronounce, all served by employees paid a living wage. Ask for yours off the menu ‘wild style,’ cooked in mustard with grilled onions.
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EMBARCADERO & FERRY BUILDING
LA MAR CEBICHERIá Map Peruvian, Seafood $$$
415-397-8880; www.lamarcebicheria.com; Pier 1 1/2 Embarcadero; 11:30am-2:30pm Mon-Fri, noon-2:30pm Sat & Sun, 5:30-10pm Mon-Thu, 5:30-10:30pm Fri & Sat, 5:30-9pm Sun; 7, 21, 71, F, J, K, L, M, N; & Embarcadero
Business lunches here could lead to some very untoward office behavior: the key ingredient in these collaged plates of Peruvian cebiche is leche de tigre, the ‘milk of the tiger,’ a marinade of lime, chili and brine that ‘cooks’ the fish without a fire, and is said to have aphrodisiac properties. Sunny days are prime for seats by the bay and a plate of pristine, spicy cebiche classico