San Francisco - Alison Bing [126]
SOMA
Back in the dot-com days, innovative new restaurants opened up almost weekly in South of Market, and only the standouts managed to survive both boom and bust. New ventures are again beginning to open in the area, once more raising the bar for creativity. Now’s the time to taste-test, and place your bets on who the next round of SoMa survivors will be.
BOULEVARD Map Californian $$$
415-543-6084; www.boulevardrestaurant.com; 1 Mission St; lunch & dinner; F, J, K, L, M, N; & Embarcadero
The 1889 Belle Epoque styling of the quake-surviving Audiffred Building is a fitting locale for Boulevard, which remains one of San Francisco’s most consistently creative and widely respected restaurants. Chef Nancy Oakes has a light, easy touch with juicy pork chops, enough local soft-shell crab to satisfy a sailor, and chocolate ganache cake with housemade bourbon ice cream.
WATERBAR Map Seafood $$$
415-284-9922; 399 The Embarcadero; 11:30am-9:30pm Sun-Tue, to 10pm Wed-Sat; F, N, T; & Embarcadero
The giant glass column aquariums in the dining room and the splendid vista of the bay beyond give you some idea just how fresh and local the sustainably sourced seafood is here. Leave the dining room to Silicon Valley strivers trying hard to impress dates and investors, and make a beeline for the oval bar, where the plates and prices are smaller, and oyster shells and corks are popping to keep pace with orders of local mollusks with shallot/wine mignonette and local champagne by the glass.
SALT HOUSE Map Californian $$$
415-543-8900; www.salthousesf.com; 545 Mission St; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat, to midnight Fri & Sat; 6, 7, 10, 14, 21, 31, 71, F, J, K, L, M, N; & Montgomery St
For a business lunch that feels more like a spa getaway, take your choice of light fare such as duck confit or yellowfin tuna with beets. Forget the ice tea, and unwind with wine by the glass and refreshing ginger juleps instead. Service is leisurely, so order that carrot cake with cream-cheese ice cream now.
DELANCEY STREET Map New American $$
415-512-5179; 600 Embarcadero St; 11am-11pm Tue-Fri, 10am-11pm Sat & Sun; 12, N, T
There’s an explanation for the eclectic comfort-food menu and your server’s tattoos: this restaurant is nonprofit Delancey St’s job-retraining program for ex-cons, and everything from the menu to the service is provided by participants supervised by acclaimed restaurant professionals. Brunch is best, and the entire tab for your gingery pumpkin pancakes or poached eggs with crabcakes goes right into the program, tips included.
TROPISUEÑO Map Mexican $
415-243-0299; www.tropisueno.com; 75 Yerba Buena Lane; 11am-10:30pm; 6, 7, 10, 14, 21, 31, 71, F, J, K, L, M, N; & Powell St
Last time you enjoyed casual Mexican dining this much, there were probably balmy ocean breezes and hammocks involved. Instead, you’re steps away from SFMOMA, savoring an al pastor (marinated pork) burrito with mesquite salsa and grilled pineapple, and sipping a margarita with a chili-salted rim. The organic rustic decor and the location are upscale, but the prices are about what you’d pay in the Mission, give or take a buck and a BART ride.
SENTINEL Map Sandwiches $
415-284-9960; www.thesentinelsf.com; 37 New Montgomery St; 7:30am-2:30pm Mon-Fri; 6, 7, 10, 14, 21, 31, 71, F, J, K, L, M, N; & Montgomery St
Rebel SF chef Dennis Leary is out to revolutionize lunchtime take-out, taking on the classics with top-notch seasonal ingredients. Tuna salad gets radical with chipotle mayo and the snap of crisp summer vegetables, and roast beef does an about-face with horseradish cream cheese. Menus change daily; come prepared for about a 10-minute wait, since every sandwich is made to order.
BUTLER & THE CHEF Map French $
415-896-2075; www.thebutlerandthechefbistro.com; 155a South Park St; 8am-3pm Tue-Sat, 10am-3pm Sun; 12, N, T
All the French classics you’d never expect to find among SoMa warehouses are here, from the croque monsieur (pressed ham and cheese) with Niman Ranch ham, Emmenthal cheese and béchamel on organic bread, to light, flaky-crusted