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San Francisco - Alison Bing [200]

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www.eandjbbq.com; 126 Broadway; lunch $7-9, dinner $12-20; 11am-10pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat; 12th St) The smoked pork ribs are damn good at this simple, family-run spot with plastic red-checked tablecloths, occasional live music and slow service (stick around, it’s worth it).

Shan Dong ( 510-839-2299; http://sd.222.to; 328 10th St; dishes $8-12; 10am-9:30pm Mon-Thu, to 10pm Fri-Sun; 12th St) Hand-cut sesame noodles, giant pork buns, fresh dumplings – you can’t go wrong at this authentic Mandarin hole-in-the-wall with plastic chairs and fluorescent lighting. This is the real deal, so don’t expect fortune cookies, which are American in origin.

Drinking

Heinold’s First & Last Chance Saloon ( 510-839-6761; 56 Jack London Sq; 3-10pm Mon-Thu, to 1am Fri & Sat, from 10am Sun; 12th St) Heinold’s is tilted from age and earthquakes (hold onto your beer), but its real claim to fame is that author Jack London was a regular – he even brought his school books to study here when he was a kid.

Ruby Room ( 510-444-7224; 132 14th St; 5pm-2am Mon-Sat, from 9pm Sun; Lake Merritt) Two red floodlights are the only clues that this dive exists. Bartenders pour wicked-strong drinks, DJs spin pop to punk, and the red lighting makes everyone look hot.

Kona Club ( 510-654-7100; 4401 Piedmont Ave; 2pm-2am; 59 AC Transit) Despite the tiki bar’s return to vogue, there ain’t many around, which is why we love Kona. Think low-fi tiki – no pineapple-shaped glasses or torches, but rattan walls, a good pool table and paper cocktail umbrellas compensate.

Entertainment

Cafe Van Kleef ( 510-763-7711; www.cafevankleef.com; 1621 Telegraph Ave; 4pm-2am Mon-Fri, 6pm-2am Sat; 19th St) Every square inch of wall space is covered with knickknacks and garage-sale leftovers at this Oakland staple, which has live music on weekends, lip-smacking freshly squeezed Greyhounds (gin and grapefruit) and a party-down crowd.

Yoshi’s ( 510-238-9200; www.yoshis.com; 510 Embarcadero West; shows $15-30; lunch & dinner; 12th St) The Bay Area’s leading jazz club books a full calendar of talent from around the world. There’s a pretty good sushi restaurant and full bar, but the real draws are the cavernous jazz lounge, awesome acoustics and top-flight acts.

Uptown ( 510-451-8100; www.uptownnightclub.com; 1928 Telegraph Ave; admission varies; 19th St) Local rock bands and occasional celebs play this mammoth bar with a big outdoor smoking patio. You never know who might appear – Green Day came unannounced in 2009. Schedule varies; call ahead.

Paramount Theatre ( 510-465-6400; www.paramounttheatre.com; 2025 Broadway; 19th St) This gorgeously restored art deco theater is fabulous from every angle; check out the gentlemen’s smoking room and the ladies’ chamber. In any given month there’ll be rock concerts (Morrissey, Nelly Furtado), the Oakland Symphony or stand-up comedy. Tours ($5, starting at 10am) are on the first and third Saturdays of the month.

Grand Lake Theater ( 510-452-3556; www.renaissancerialto.com; 3200 Grand Ave; adult/child $9.50/6.50; 12 AC Transit) One of the last remaining 1920s movie palaces to show first-run films. On Friday and Saturday evenings, certain films are preceded by performances on the mighty Wurlitzer organ (check the website).

Stork Club ( 510-444-6174; http://storkcluboakland.com; 2330 Telegraph Ave; admission $5; shows 9pm; 59 AC Transit) It seems every budding Bay Area indie-rock band plays the Stork at least once. The crowd skews young and loves loud bands.

Alley ( 510-444-8505; 3325 Grand Ave; 11am-2am; 58 AC Transit) The Alley draws a wacky mix of hams and crooners, who come to sing by the piano (Tuesday to Saturday evenings). No beer on tap, but cocktails are strooooong.

Sleeping

Waterfront Hotel ( 510-836-3800; www.waterfronthoteloakland.com; Jack London Sq; r $129-199; 12th St; ) Best rooms overlook the bay at this spiffy nautical-themed hotel, with granite baths, big-screen TVs and ultra-comfy beds with feather pillows. Kids love the outdoor heated pool. Excellent service.

Washington Inn ( 510-452-1776; www.thewashingtoninn.com;

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