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small gold nugget that sparked the 1849 Gold Rush. You must register to use the library, be over 18 (or a high-school graduate) and present two forms of identification (one with photo). Visit the registration desk on entering. In Kroeber Hall, the Phoebe Hearst Museum of Anthropology ( 510-643-7648; http://hearstmuseum.berkeley.edu; admission free; 10am-4:30pm Wed-Sat, noon-4pm Sun; Downtown Berkeley) showcases the diversity of human cultures from around the world, with artifacts from ancient Peru, Egypt and Africa, among others. There’s also a large collection highlighting native California cultures.

Uphill from the campus, the University of California Botanical Garden ( 510-643-2755; http://botanicalgarden.berkeley.edu; 200 Centennial Dr; adult/child/senior $7/2/5, first Thu of month admission free; 9am-5pm, closed 1st Tue of month) has one of the most varied collections in the USA. Pick up a self-guided tour at the gift shop. Further up the same road, Lawrence Hall of Science ( 510-642-5132; http://lhs.berkeley.edu; Centennial Dr; adult/child 3-4yr/senior & student $11/6/9; 10am-5pm) educates and entertains with a huge collection of displays, from lasers to earthquakes to a climbable 60ft model of a DNA molecule.

Telegraph Ave is the throbbing heart of Berkeley’s studentville, with a constant flow of shoppers, vagrants and vendors, brisk walkers and sluggish strollers. Expect an odd mix of greying hippies who reminisce about the days of yore, too-cool hipsters who sneer at tie-dyed nostalgia, ponytailed panhandlers pressing you for change, and street vendors hawking everything from crystals to bumper stickers to self-published books. It’s not for everyone – some find it trashy and obnoxious – but when you’re on the hunt for books, maps and CDs, this is the place. Amoeba and Rasputin carry some of the Bay Area’s most diverse collections of music.

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TRANSPORTATION: BERKELEY

Distance from San Francisco 14 miles

Direction Northeast

Travel time 20 to 30 minutes

Car Bay Bridge to I-80 East; take the University Ave exit

BART Downtown Berkeley BART station is most convenient

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Just east of Telegraph Ave, People’s Park (btwn Haste St & Dwight Way; 1 AC Transit) rose to fame in the late ’60s as the epicenter of political battles between students and state-and-local law enforcement. The park has since served mostly as an unofficial day room for Berkeley’s homeless. A publicly funded restoration somewhat spruced it up, and occasional festivals still happen here, but really it’s just a mangy patch of trampled grass.

For a better park, head to Tilden Regional Park ( 510-562-7275; www.ebparks.org), in the Berkeley hills, which has hiking trails, picnic areas, swimming at Lake Anza, and plenty of kids stuff, like pony rides and a steam train. There’s a small fee for most activities.

Eating & Drinking

Chez Panisse ( 510-548-5525; www.chezpanisse.com; 1517 Shattuck Ave; cafe $18-25, prix-fixe restaurant $65-95; cafe lunch & dinner Mon-Sat, restaurant dinner Mon-Sat; 7, 9, 43 AC Transit) The temple of Alice Waters – doyenne of California cuisine – remains at the pinnacle of Bay Area dining. Book one month ahead for the legendary prix-fixe meals downstairs in the cozy Craftsman-style dining room. Note: there are no variations to the daily restaurant menu. If you’d prefer to choose, book a table at the less-expensive but equally lovely upstairs cafe.

Cheese Board Pizza Collective ( 510-549-3055; www.cheeseboardcollective.coop; 1512 Shattuck Ave; pizza slice $2.50; 11:30am-3pm & 4:30-8pm Tue-Sat; 7, 9, 43 AC Transit) A Gourmet Ghetto mainstay, with a fantastic variety of artisanal cheeses and killer goat-cheese pizzas.

Vik’s Chaat Corner ( 510-644-4432; 2390 4th St; meals under $8; 11am-6pm Tue-Fri, to 8pm Sat & Sun; 9, 19, 51 AC Transit) Our favorite Berkeley cheap-eats serves all freshly made Indian classics (no tikka masala here) that you order at the counter. Daily specials include chicken, fish and lamb curries served with all the trimmings for a mere $6 to $8.

La Note ( 510-843-1535; www.lanoterestaurant.com;