San Francisco - Alison Bing [205]
Administered by the Golden Gate National Recreation Area, the headlands are free of development, except for the occasional fort and bunker, known as batteries, left over from a century of US military occupation. Some have been turned into park buildings. Immediately northwest of the bridge, explore the remains of the never-completed Battery Spencer (Conzelman Rd; admission free) and take snapshots of the famous view through the bridge cables towards downtown San Francisco. Pick up trail maps, field guides and historical information at the Marin Headlands Visitors Center ( 415-331-1540; www.nps.gov/goga; Bldg 948, Fort Barry; 9:30am-4:30pm).
Every fall, migratory birds and raptors – including hawks, falcons and eagles – soar overhead at Hawk Hill (www.ggro.org; Conzelman Rd; admission free). Because open water doesn’t support the thermals that birds need to stay aloft, they use the headlands to gain altitude for the 2-mile crossing of the Golden Gate. Bring binoculars. Go 1.8 miles up Conzelman Rd, park along the road and walk up the west side of the hill; for a map and details on which birds are there now, see www.ggro.org. Near the end of Conzelman Rd is the still-operating 1855 Point Bonita Lighthouse ( 12:30-3:30pm Sat-Mon, free tours at 12:30pm), a breathtaking half-mile path from the parking area, ending at a suspension footbridge above the churning surf (acrophobes: beware). Looking west from the tip of Point Bonita, with the Pacific roiling around you, the distant city skyline looks out of place.
Marine Mammal Center ( 415-289-7325; www.tmmc.org; 4 Bunker Rd; admission free, donation suggested; 10am-5pm), on the hill above Rodeo Lagoon, is the largest marine mammal hospital in the world. In 2009 the center opened its all-green, solar-powered hospital, with observation decks for visitors to get close to the recovering patients (mostly seals and sea lions) before they’re released back into the wild. Spring brings oh-so-cute new pups – and the most visitors. Kids love the hands-on exhibits and see-through glass walls to the science labs and animal rooms.
At the end of Bunker Rd sits black-sand Rodeo Beach (ro-day-oh), protected from the wind by cliffs.
Sleeping
HI Marin Headlands Hostel ( 415-331-2777; www.norcalhostels.org/marin; Bldg 941, Fort Barry; dm/r $24/66) Set amid towering eucalyptus trees, this friendly, ecosensitive hostel has two parts: the main building (formerly a military infirmary), location of 76 dorm beds; and the cozier annex (formerly officers’ housing), location of most private rooms. Picture windows overlook the lush landscape. Good game room. Easy access to hiking.
There are four small campgrounds in the Marin Headlands; all require a short hike from the nearest parking. Note: bring waterproof gear to counter the nighttime fog. Kirby Cove Campground ( 800-365-2267; campsites $25; Apr-Oct) occupies a spectacular shady dell on the Golden Gate’s west side, near the mouth of the bay; there’s a small beach. Hawk, Bicentennial and Haypress campgrounds are inland; camping is free but must be reserved through Marin Headlands Visitors Center ( 415-331-1540; www.nps.gov/goga; Bldg 948, Fort Barry; 9:30am-4:30pm).
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MUIR WOODS & MUIR BEACH
Coastal redwoods are the tallest living things on earth, and exist only on the California coast, from Santa Cruz to just over the Oregon border. Only 4% of the original forest remains, but you can explore a glorious old-growth stand at Muir Woods National Monument ( 415-388-2595; adults/under 16 $5/free; 8am-sunset,