San Francisco - Alison Bing [215]
Sonoma Hotel ( 707-996-2996, 800-468-6016; www.sonomahotel.com; 110 W Spain St, Sonoma; r incl breakfast midweek/weekend Nov-Mar $140/170, Apr-Oct $170/198) Stylish 1880 landmark hotel on happening Sonoma Plaza, with larger/smaller rooms for $30 more/less; two-night minimum on weekends.
Hillside Inn ( 707-546-9353; www.hillside-inn.com; 2901 4th St, Sonoma; s/d Nov-Mar $70/78, Apr-Oct $74/82; ) Downtown Sonoma’s best-kept motel is close to wine-tasting action; add $4 for kitchens.
Sugarloaf Ridge State Park ( 707-833-5712, reservations 800-444-7275; www.parks.ca.gov; Adobe Canyon Rd; campsites $15-20) North of Kenwood wineries, 50 sites without hookups are nestled in two mellow meadows.
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RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEY
The West preserves its wild ways in Russian River, two hours north of San Francisco (via Hwys 101 and 116) in western Sonoma County. Here ancient redwoods tower over independent wineries, and the aptly named 10-mile Bohemian Highway is lined with resorts for rebels, hippie craft galleries and gay-friendly honky-tonks.
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top picks
Wine Country Spas
Indian Springs
Osmosis (opposite)
Kenwood Inn & Spa
Spa at Hotel Healdsburg
Lavender Hill Spa
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Information
Guerneville Visitor Center ( 707-869-9000; www.russianriver.com; 16209 1st St, Guerneville; 10am-5pm) Offers maps and last-minute lodging info.
Sebastopol Area Chamber of Commerce & Visitors Center (707-823-3032, 877-828-4748; www.sebastopol.org; 265 S Main St, Sebastopol; 10am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri) Provides maps and the free Sonoma County Farm Trails Guide (www.farmtrails.org), which lists Sonoma farms open to visitors.
Wineries
Pinot noir is a finicky grape that withers in sun and mildews in fog, yet it thrives in Russian River Valley, delivering autumn-spiced pinot noir at solar-powered Moshin ( 707-433-5499; www.moshinvineyards.com; 10295 Westside Rd; 11am-4:30pm). At organic, certified-biodynamic Porter Creek Vineyards ( 707-433-6321; www.portercreekvineyards.com; 8735 Westside Rd; tastings free; 10:30am-4:30pm), woodsy pinot noir is served in a shed on a bar made from a bowling alley lane. Near the coast, Freestone ( 707-874-1010; www.jpvfreestone.com; 12747 El Camino Bodega, Freestone; 11am-5pm Fri-Sun) grows grapes biodynamically and interferes minimally to yield pomegranate-bright Fogdog pinot noir.
But Pinot grapes also make respectable Champagne-style whites, as pioneer Francis Korbel discovered 120 years ago north of Guerneville at Korbel Champagne Cellars ( 707-887-2294; www.korbel.com; 13250 River Rd, Guerneville; 10am-5pm). Stop by for free tours of the champagne cellars, fragrant rose gardens and toasts of Korbel’s bubbly. For sparkling wines served to US presidents, head 15 minutes south of Guerneville to the splendid outdoor hilltop tasting bar at Iron Horse Vineyards ( 707-887-1507; www.ironhorsevineyards.com; 9786 Ross Station Rd; tasting $10-15; 10am-3:30pm).
Sights & Activities
Paddle down winding Russian River past herons and otters in Burke’s Canoes ( 707-887-1222; www.burkescanoetrips.com; 8600 River Rd, Forestville; canoes per person $59; 9am-6pm May-Oct), or rent kayaks at King’s Sport & Tackle ( 707-869-2156; www.guernevillesport.com; 16258 Main St, Guerneville; kayaks per day $30-50; 9am-5:30pm May-Oct) and launch off at Johnson’s Beach ( 707-869-2022; www.johnsonsbeach.com; end of Church St, Guerneville; 10am-6pm May-Oct).
Towering old-growth redwoods at 805-acre Armstrong Redwoods State Reserve ( 707-869-2015; www.parks.ca.gov; 17000 Armstrong Woods Rd; parking $6, overnight camping $20; 8am-sunset) were saved by lumber baron Colonel James Boydston Armstrong, who bought these woods in 1874 and saved them from the axe, including the 308ft, 1400-year-old Colonel Armstrong tree.
Occidental is the heart of the Bohemian Hwy, with its organic farmers market ( 707-793-2159; www.occidentalfarmersmarket.com; 4pm-dusk Fri, Jun-Oct), clever crafts from reclaimed materials at Renga Arts ( 707-874-9407;