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By Root 1084 0

the weight of a thousand secrets lifted like the morning fog. Seedier, more outrageous gay scenes also thrived in Polk Gulch (near Civic Center) and on Folsom St south of Market, but the Castro stood apart because it was bold, business savvy and politically organized. In front of 575 Castro St is a plaque that marks this spot as the one-time camera store of Harvey Milk, the Castro entrepreneur who became the first openly gay man elected to public office in the US. Near the Castro branch of the public library is a stretch of 16th St renamed José Serría Court for the local icon better known as the Absolute Empress of San Francisco, who led patrons in rousing choruses of ‘God Save Us Nelly Queens’ at the height of the gay-bashing, fear-mongering McCarthy era, and threw the city’s first gala gay balls in defiance of police raids on gay establishments.

When a mysterious illness ravaged the Castro in the early 1980s, loss cast its long shadow over the neighborhood. But the determined intervention of HIV/AIDS activists here saved untold lives, establishing global standards for humane, life-saving treatment and prevention. The Imperial Court balls begun by Her Royal Highness José Serría and a 10km AIDS Walk through Golden Gate Park became early fundraisers for the fight against AIDS, supplying essential monies not forthcoming from public coffers and providing a model other cities soon followed to show their support for the fight against AIDS. The Castro’s response continues to prove to the world that model citizens do not always hide behind picket fences or come in a standard-issue uniform. To support this heroic effort, visit Under One Roof and the Human Rights Campaign.

Today, the rainbow flag flies high over the neighborhood, and the Castro flexes its political muscle. With backing from local organizations, more openly gay officials were elected in the first decade of the 21st century than at any time in US history. Good times are always on the bill at the landmark Castro Theatre and the neighborhood’s many bars and cafes (for top picks, Click here).

The Castro’s orientation? Gay, of course, with a smattering of straight couples with babies thrown in for shock value. The Castro was formerly known as Eureka Valley and sits at the base of Twin Peaks. The corner of Castro and Market Sts forms the main crossroads of the district, with more shops and restaurants along Market St to Church St and cafes along 18th St. To ogle picture-perfect, Queen Anne–style Victorian cottages, head uphill on 18th and 19th Sts below Upper Market and Twin Peaks.

Follow Castro St south to Noe Valley, one of the most family-friendly spots in San Francisco. Though it is distinctly yuppie, a significant number of lesbian and gay families and the odd stray Mission hipster keep it from seeming too much like a stodgy Connecticut suburb. Mommy stereotypes were made to be broken by the chic boutiques along 24th St, where nary a high-waisted jean or lumpy sweater can be found. And while the food and bars are better in the Mission, Noe Valley cafes are an ideal spot to park a stroller and while away a sunny day.

Noe Valley is just over the hill from the Castro, around 24th St between Castro and Church Sts. The main drag is 24th St, bordered by residential streets with lots of pretty, pale Victorian housing. On Church St the restaurants and shops continue until the last stop on the J Church line around 29th St.

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top picks

THE CASTRO & NOE VALLEY

Castro Theatre

Corona Heights Park

F line Streetcar

Under One Roof

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TRANSPORTATION: THE CASTRO & NOE VALLEY

Bus The 24 passes through the Castro on its way from Pacific Heights and the Haight to Noe Valley. The 33 links the Castro to the Mission, the Haight, Golden Gate Park and the Richmond.

Streetcar The K, L and M lines run under Market St, with stops at Castro St. The F streetcar does the same on the surface of Market St. The J line runs from Downtown and stops on the edge of the Castro at Church and Market Sts.

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