San Francisco - Alison Bing [92]
To plan a picnic, protest or some other event in the park and get detailed park maps, check in at McLaren Lodge (cnr Fell & Stanyan Sts; 8am-5pm Mon-Fri) at the eastern entrance of the park, under the splendid cypress that’s the city’s official tree. For information about free park walking tours, call Friends of Recreation & Parks ( 415-263-0991).
MH DE YOUNG MEMORIAL MUSEUM Map
415-750-3600; www.famsf.org/deyoung; 50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Dr; adult/child under 12yr/college student & child 13-17yr/senior $10/free/6/7, $2 discount with Muni transfer, 1st Tue of month free; 9:30am-5:15pm Tue-Sun, until 8:45pm Fri mid-Jan–Nov; 5, 21, 44, 71, N;
You’d think the art would be upstaged by Swiss architects Herzog & de Meuron (of Tate Modern fame) and their sleek building, with its copper cladding oxidizing green to become part of the scenery, the facade perforated in a seemingly abstract pattern drawn from aerial photography of the park. But this landmark collection of arts and fine crafts from around the world puts California’s own artistic pursuits into global perspective, and hides a surprise around every corner – don’t miss 19th-century Oceanic ceremonial masks and stunning Central Asian rugs from the 11,000-plus textile collection. Blockbuster temporary shows range from Tutankhamen’s treasures to Dale Chihuly’s bombastic glass sculpture, but the real gems here are rotating-collection highlights like a coffin shaped like a cocoa pod by Ghanian artist Kane Kwei, and Masami Teraoka’s 1977 wry commentary on globalization: a geisha eating Baskin & Robbins vanilla ice cream. Special collections are downstairs, and the museum shop offers two floors of shopping temptation.
The 144ft twisting medieval-style armored tower is the one feature of the building that seems incongruous with the park setting, but though you might expect to see vats of oil boiling on the top floor, instead there are spectacular views on clear days to the Pacific and Golden Gate Bridge, and yes, another bookstore. Access to the tower viewing room is free, and worth the wait for the elevator by Ruth Asawa’s mesmerizing filigreed pods.
CALIFORNIA ACADEMY OF SCIENCES Map
415-379-8000; www.calacademy.org; 55 Music Concourse Dr; adult/child under 6yr/child 7-11yr/senior & child 12-17yr $24.95/free/14.95/19.95; 9:30am-5pm Mon-Sat, 11am-5pm Sun; 5, 21, 44, 71, N
Finally the California Academy of Sciences has a museum suited to its fascinating collection of 38,000 natural wonders and the occasional freak of nature. Under the wildflower-covered ‘living roof’ of Renzo Piano’s LEED-certified green building, butterflies flutter through a four-storey glass rainforest dome, a rare white alligator stalks a swamp, and Pierre the Penguin paddles his massive new tank in the African Hall. In the basement aquarium, kids duck inside a glass bubble to enter an eel forest, find Nemos in the tropical-fish tanks and squeal to pet starfish in an aquatic petting zoo. The views here are sublime: you can glimpse into infinity in the Planetarium or ride the elevator to the roof for panoramas over Golden Gate Park. Displays throughout the main floor explain conservation issues affecting California’s ecosystem, and you can actually eat those words – the cafeteria sells treats made with local, organically grown ingredients. For an even wilder scene, check the schedule for Thursday evenings when the academy is open late and cocktails are served.
CONSERVATORY OF FLOWERS Map
415-666-7001; www.conservatoryofflowers.org; Conservatory Dr West; adult/child 5-11yr/senior & child 12-17yr $5/1.50/3; sunrise-sunset; 5, 7, 21, 33, 71;
Flower power is alive and well inside this grand Victorian greenhouse, where orchids sprawl out like bohemian divas, lilies float contemplatively in ponds and carnivorous