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Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for garnish

1. In a medium Dutch oven, heat the oil over medium-high heat and cook the pancetta until it is crisp and the fat is rendered, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the onion, carrot, celery, pepper, and 1 teaspoon of the salt and cook until the vegetables are lightly caramelized, stirring occasionally, 4 to 6 minutes. Increase the heat and stir in the sirloin and veal. Cook, stirring and breaking the meat into small pieces, until the meat is well browned, about 5 minutes. Add the tomato paste and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes. Stir in the wine and garlic and cook until the wine is nearly evaporated, about 2 minutes. Add the stock and reduce the heat to low. Cook, partially covered, until the liquid is almost completely evaporated, about 10 minutes.

2. Add ½ cup of the half-and-half and continue cooking for 30 to 40 minutes, adding the remaining half-and-half little by little as the sauce reduces. The sauce should be very thick and rich. Season with the remaining ½ teaspoon salt and additional black pepper to taste; you may not need any more seasoning, depending on the stock that you used. Stir in the parsley.

3. Serve the sauce tossed with cooked pasta and garnish with grated cheese.

5 cups meat sauce, 4 servings

CHEDDAR CHEESE SOUP WITH CHICKEN AND PEPPERS

Here’s a different spin on cheese soup. It’s a bit lighter than other versions you may have tried but still wonderfully spiced and definitely satisfying. Cheese soup doesn’t reheat easily—it tends to separate—so make it when the gang comes over to watch the game and it can be gobbled up in one evening.

2 to 2½ pounds chicken leg quarters (about 4)

1 tablespoon salt

1 tablespoon sweet or hot pimentón (smoked Spanish paprika)

5 tablespoons olive oil

2 poblano chiles, seeded and minced

1 red bell pepper, minced

1 jalapeño chile, seeded and minced

1 cup minced red onion

¼ cup minced celery

¼ cup chopped cilantro stems

1 teaspoon chili powder

¼ teaspoon ground cumin

¼ teaspoon dried ground oregano

¼ teaspoon cayenne

1 tablespoon minced garlic

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 cup dry white wine

8 cups chicken stock or canned low-sodium chicken broth

2 pounds Idaho Russet potatoes, peeled and cut into ½-inch dice (about 4 cups)

1 cup whole milk

1 pound sharp cheddar cheese, coarsely grated (about 4 cups)

4 ounces queso cotija, finely grated (about 1 cup), for garnish

4 ounces queso fresco or ricotta salata, crumbled (about 1 cup), for garnish

¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves, for garnish

Mexican hot sauce, such as Cholula, for serving (optional)

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F.

2. Season the chicken with 1 teaspoon of the salt and the pimentón. Heat the olive oil in a 6-quart or larger soup pot over medium-high heat. Add the chicken, in batches if necessary, and cook until browned on both sides, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Transfer the browned chicken to a baking dish or baking sheet and roast in the oven until cooked through, about 25 minutes. Remove the chicken from the oven and set aside until cool enough to handle. When cool, remove the meat from the bones and shred into bite-sized pieces. Discard the skin and bones.

3. While the chicken is roasting, add the poblanos, bell pepper, jalapeño, red onion, celery, cilantro stems, chili powder, cumin, oregano, cayenne, and 1 teaspoon of the remaining salt to the drippings remaining in the pot and cook until the vegetables are soft, about 6 minutes. Stir in the garlic and flour and cook for 2 minutes more. Stir in the wine, cook for 1 minute, and add the stock. Bring the soup to a boil, reduce the heat to simmer, and cook for 15 minutes. Stir in the potatoes, reserved chicken, and the remaining 1 teaspoon salt. Return the soup to a gentle simmer and cook until the potatoes are just tender, about 15 minutes longer. Stir in the milk.

4. Remove the soup from the heat and set aside to cool for 5 minutes. Add the cheddar and whisk until melted.

5. Serve the soup