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provence savvy

You can make your own combination of herbes de Provence by combining 1 teaspoon dried tarragon, ½ teaspoon dried rosemary, 1 teaspoon dried thyme, 1 teaspoon dried chervil, and ½ teaspoon dried basil.

Caponata

This delicious sweet and savory dish is terrific to serve as a topping for bruschetta and is a delicious complement for grilled meats, seafood, and poultry. The slow-cooked eggplant, onion, tomatoes, and aromatics combine with salty capers, olives, and golden raisins to melt into a sweet, salty, and flavor-packed condiment. The recipe for caponata depends on the region in Italy it is made, so you should feel free to add or subtract ingredients as you like. Just make sure that you keep the liquid measures the same. Caponata is best served at room temperature, actually gets better after a few days, and will keep for one week in the fridge.

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium red onion, finely chopped

3 cloves garlic, minced

3 stalks celery, finely chopped

2 medium purple eggplants, finely diced (see savvy)

2 medium red bell peppers, seeded and cut into ½-inch pieces

1 teaspoon dried oregano

1 teaspoon salt

Pinch of red pepper flakes

¼ cup balsamic vinegar

One 15-ounce can diced tomatoes, with their juice (see savvy)

1 cup golden raisins (see savvy)

¼ cup brined capers, drained

½ cup pitted Kalamata olives (or your favorite olive)

½ cup finely chopped fresh Italian parsley

heat the oil in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion, garlic, and celery and sauté until the onion is softened, about 3 minutes.

transfer the contents of the skillet to the insert of a 5- to 7-quart slow cooker. Add the eggplants, bell peppers, oregano, salt, and red pepper flakes to the skillet and sauté until the eggplant begins to soften, 4 to 5 minutes. Add the vinegar and allow it to evaporate a bit, then stir in the tomatoes and raisins.

transfer the contents of the skillet to the slow-cooker insert and stir to combine. Cover and cook on low for 5 hours. Stir in the capers, olives, and parsley and cook for an additional 1 hour, until the eggplant is tender.

remove the caponata from the slow cooker and serve it cold or at room temperature.

makes about 6 cups

* * *

eggplant savvy

I usually leave the skin on the eggplant because it adds color and texture to the dish. Make sure the eggplant you buy has a smooth unblemished skin and isn’t wrinkly at all.

tomato savvy

If you prefer a less chunky version of this dish, use one 15-ounce can tomato purée instead of the diced tomatoes.

raisin savvy

In testing this recipe, I found the flavor of golden raisins much more to my liking than that of dark brown raisins.

Fennel Gratin

Fennel is a delicate anise-flavored vegetable that doesn’t make it to many dinner tables, which is a shame because it is has an unusual and delicious flavor. This simple recipe pairs fennel with onions, potatoes, and Swiss cheese; the result is a spectacular side dish to serve with grilled or roasted meats or poultry.

3 bulbs fennel, stalks and root ends trimmed, cut into ½-inch slices

2 medium onions, cut into ½-inch half rounds

3 medium red or Yukon gold potatoes, scrubbed and cut into ¼-inch-thick slices

1½ cups heavy cream

1 cup chicken broth

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon Tabasco sauce

1 cup finely shredded Gruyère cheese

coat the inside of the insert of a 5- to 7-quart slow cooker with nonstick cooking spray or line it with a slow-cooker liner according to the manufacturer’s directions.

toss the vegetables together in a mixing bowl, put them in the slow-cooker insert, and press them down. Whisk together the cream, broth, salt, and Tabasco in a mixing bowl and pour over the vegetables.

cover and cook on high for 2 hours, until the potatoes are tender. Sprinkle with the cheese, cover, and cook for another 30 minutes.

serve the gratin from the slow cooker set on warm.

serves 6

A Word about Potatoes

There are lots of potatoes to choose from in your supermarket, and each variety has its own