Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [103]
If you need a lie-down after all the glass-buying, Vandrarhem Orrefors (300 20; Silversparregatan 14; dm/s/d from Skr170/320/390; May-Sep) is an excellent hostel located conveniently near the factory. Quaint red houses surround a grassy garden, and the peaceful rooms have proper beds. Breakfast is available on request.
In a recently renovated 19th-century cottage opposite the hostel, Orrefors Bed & Break-fast (301 30, www.bnb.nu; Silversparregatan 17; s/d Skr520/590, small/large apt with bathroom Skr920/1620; Jun-Aug) has simple yet comfortable rooms with shared facilities. The friendly owners run short summer courses in glass-blowing (three hours, Skr300) at the nearby Riksglasskolan (National School of Glass; 302 64; www.riksglasskolan.se; Simon Gates väg).
In the factory grounds, Orrefors Värdshus (300 59; meals around Skr95; 10.30am-4pm Mon-Fri, noon-4pm Sat & Sun) is an inn that serves good lunches.
Gullaskruv & Målerås
0481
Don’t miss the glassworks at Gullaskruv, about 6km northwest of Orrefors. Here, Uruguayan-born artist Carlos R Pebaqué (321 17; www.carlosartglass.com) creates extraordinary vases in his one glass oven.
The large and popular Mats Jonasson factory (314 00; www.matsjonasson.com), 8km further northwest in Målerås, sells somewhat kitsch engraved glass-animal designs from around Skr159. There’s also a restaurant for a post-shopping refuel.
A kilometre or so southeast of Gullaskruv, Hälleberga Bed & Breakfast (320 21; www.halleberga.se, in Swedish; Hälleberga 108; per adult/7-12yr/under 7yr Skr350/250/100; ), a youth hostel-turned-B&B, boasts a tranquil rustic setting. Rooms all have washbasins, and linen and breakfast are included in the price.
Handy for the Mats Jonasson glassworks, Malerås Vandrarhem (311 75; frank.fender@telia.com; Lindvägen 5, Målerås; hostel beds per person Skr150; ), an SVIF hostel, is another cheap, simple option.
For coffee and buns, try Café Konditori (310 44; Lindvägen 1, Målerås; closed Sun) attached to Målerås’ bakery.
Kosta
0478
Kosta is where Glasriket started in 1742. Today the Kosta Boda (503 00; www.kostaboda.se) complex pulls in coach-loads of visitors, who raid the vast discount outlets (there’s even discounted designer threads these days). Funnily, Sweden even manages to make its tourist traps pleasant places. The Kosta Boda exhibition gallery (Skr30) contains some inspired creations. There are plenty of glass-blowing demos in the old factory quarters, and some great cafes and restaurants, too.
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A CULTURAL BLOW-OUT
Feel inspired by Glasriket’s top designers? If so, have a go at glass-blowing (Skr150; mid-Jun–mid-Aug) yourself. Several hotshots – Orrefors, Kosta, Pukeberg and Johansfors – risk litigation by allowing you to blow, shape and ‘open out’ the treacly molten glass. It’s great fun, and the endearingly misshapen result will be a source of pride for years to come. Your masterpiece has to cool for two hours before you can take it away.
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For a close encounter with a beautiful bandy-legged elk, head for Grönåsens Ålgpark (/fax 507 70; www.moosepark.net; 10am-6pm Apr–mid-Sep, 10am-5pm mid-Sep–Oct), Sweden’s biggest elk park, located 3km west of town towards Orrefors. You can admire these gentle creatures on a 1.3km walk in the forested enclosure (Skr40). Ironically, you can also buy elk sausages to roast on the outdoor barbecue or purchase an elk-skin baseball cap. And, talking of horror, don’t miss the display in the building behind the shop: you’ll drive 50% slower after you’ve seen the crumpled metal and lolling tongue…
There are great facilities at Kosta Bad & Camping (505 17; info@glasriketkosta.se; sites Skr145, cabins from Skr425; Apr-Oct; ), on the edge of Kosta village, including a sauna, kids’ pool and a shop.
Across from the Kosta Boda factory, sleek Kosta Boda Art Hotel (500 06; www.kostahotell.se; Stora vägen 75; s/d from Skr1095/1695; ) is set to open in 2009. Made with 100 tons of glass, in-house assets will include a designer glass