Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [108]
Buses connect all the main towns on the island from Kalmar, and run every hour or two to Borgholm (Skr50, one hour) and Mörbylånga (Skr34, one hour). A few buses per day run to Byxelkrok and Grankullavik (both Skr91, around 2¼ hours), in the far north of the island. Services to the south are poor, with some improvement May to August.
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BORGHOLM & AROUND
Öland’s ‘capital’ and busiest town, Borgholm seeps a vaguely tacky air with its discount shops and summer hordes of teens on the pull. The most dramatic (and satisfying) sight is the enormous ruined castle on its outskirts.
The tourist office (890 00; Sandgatan 25; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat late May-Jun; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pm Sat, 10am-4pm Sun Jul-early Aug; 9am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat early Aug–mid-Aug; 9am-5.30pm rest of year) is at the bus station. Banks and other services are on Storgatan.
Sights
Northern Europe’s largest ruined castle, Borgholms Slott (123 33; www.borgholmsslott.se; adult/12-17yr Skr50/20; 10am-6pm May-Aug, 10am-4pm Apr & Sep), looms just south of town. This epic limestone structure was burnt and abandoned early in the 18th century, after life as a dye works. There’s a great museum inside and a nature reserve nearby, as well as summer concerts and children’s activities.
Sweden’s most famous ‘summer house’, Solliden Palace (153 55; adult/7-17yr Skr65/35; 11am-6pm mid-May–mid-Sep), 2.5km south of the town centre, is still used by the Swedish royals. Its exceptional gardens are open to the public and are well worth a wander.
VIDA Museum & Konsthall (774 40; www.vidamuseum.com; adult/under 15yr Skr40/free; 10am-6pm Jul-early Aug, 10am-5pm May, Jun & early Aug-Sep, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun only Apr & Oct-Dec) is a strikingly modern museum and art gallery in Halltorp, about 9km south of Borgholm. Its finest halls are devoted to two of Sweden’s top glass designers.
On the east coast, about 13km southeast of Borgholm, is Gärdslösa kyrka (11am-5pm mid-May–mid-Sep), the best-preserved medieval church (1138) on Öland, with reasonably intact wall and ceiling paintings.
Sleeping
The tourist office can help you find rooms round town.
Kapelludden Camping & Stugor (56 07 70; Sandgatan 27; info@kapelludden.se; sites low/high season Skr170/280, 6-bed cabins Skr1220, weekly rental only in high season; ) Just near the tourist office this beachside campsite is the handiest. It’s a huge place (some 450 sites) and has five-star, family-oriented facilities, though it can get rowdy in summer.
Ebbas Vandrarhem & Trädgårdscafé (103 73; rum@ebbas.se; Storgatan 12; s/d Skr325/580, lunch Skr85; May-Sep) Right in the thick of things, Ebbas cafe has a small STF hostel above it. Five of the cosy lemon-yellow rooms overlook the gorgeous rose-laced garden, and four the bustling pedestrianised main street. There’s a kitchen for self-caterers…or just pop downstairs for decent hot and cold grub (lunch Skr85), served until 9pm in the summer (earlier at other times). Book ahead in summer.
Villa Sol (56 25 52; www.villasol.nu; Slottsgatan 30; s/d low season from Skr350/500, high season from Skr500/700) Villa Sol has a super garden and small but thoughtfully decorated rooms. Each has a different colour scheme – we like the Yellow Room best, for its sunny disposition and private balcony. Prices exclude breakfast, but there is a guest kitchen. Rooms with private bathrooms cost around Skr250 extra.
Guntorps Herrgård (130 00; www.guntorpsherrgard.se; Guntorpsgatan; s/d from Skr995/1195) This is a delightful old farmhouse east of town. The accommodation is excellent and unintentionally camp, with peachy tones and chandeliers above the beds. There’s the added drawcard of a huge smörgåsbord (Skr195 per person; from 6pm daily in summer) offering superb samples of local dishes.
Hotell Borgholm (770 60; www.hotellborgholm.com; Trädgårdsgatan 15; d Skr1095-1755; ) Cool grey hues, bold feature walls, and smart functionalist furniture make for stylish slumber at this urbane hotel. Rooms are spacious, with the recently opened top-floor options