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Étage (23 20 60; Stortorget 6; 11pm-4am Mon & Thu, 11pm-5am Fri & Sat) Central and mainstream, Étage boasts five bars, glammed-up party crowds and two crowded dance floors (one playing retro, the other the latest house tunes).

Club Wonk (23 93 03; Amiralsgatan 20; 10am-5pm Sat) Malmö’s best bet for queer clubbers, Wonk works up the crowd with three bars, lusty video projections and two dance floors (one playing techno, the other playing Schlager).

CINEMAS

Malmö’s numerous cinemas include the following:

Biograf Spegeln (12 59 78; Stortorget 29) Alternative selections.

Filmstaden Malmö (660 20 90; Storgatan 22) Hollywood releases.

Shopping

The current hot spot for up-and-coming designers and vintage threads is the streets around Davidshallstorg, south of Gamla Staden.

Tjallamalla (791 90; Davidshallsgatan 15; Mon-Sat) Stockholm’s legendary purveyor of new and emerging designers now feeds local trendsetters on cult labels like Whyszeck, Merde! and Lund+Berg.

Chique (0733-39 21 71; Kärleksgatan 3; Mon-Sat) In a district famed for vintage stores, this is one of the best. Its candy-store interior heaves with impeccable retro gems, from ’70s Christian Dior handbags to dazzling ’80s knits and studly cowboy boots.

Formargruppen (780 60; www.formargrupp.se; Engelbrektsgatan 8; Mon-Sat) Representing a dynamic collective of Swedish artists, artisans and designers, this central shop-gallery stocks striking wares, from ceramics and pottery to jewellery and textiles.

Getting There & Away

TO/FROM THE AIRPORT

Flygbuss (0771-77 77 77; www.flygbussarna.com) runs from Centralstationen to Sturup airport (adult/16-25yr/under 16yr with an adult Skr99/79/free, 40 minutes) roughly every 40 minutes on weekdays, with six services on Saturday and seven on Sunday; a taxi shouldn’t cost more than Skr400.

AIR

Sturup airport (613 10 00; www.malmoairport.se) is 33km southeast of Malmö. SAS (0770-72 77 27; www.sas.se) has up to 11 nonstop flights to Stockholm Arlanda daily.

Malmö Aviation (0771-55 00 10; www.malmoaviation.se) flies several times daily to Stockholm Bromma airport. International destinations include Antalya (Turkey), Budapest (Hungary), Gran Canaria (Canary Islands) and Heraklion (Crete).

Trains run directly from Malmö to Copen-hagen’s main airport (Skr95, 35 minutes, every 20 minutes), which has a much wider flight selection.

BUS

Local & Regional

The länstrafik (public transport network) operates in zones, with a single journey ranging from Skr16 within the city of Malmö to a maximum of Skr84 within the county. Local trains are your best bet for travel to/from the major towns in Skåne; buses are a good option for towns and out-of-the-way areas not on the train lines.

Local city buses depart from Centralplan, in front of the train station. Tickets can be purchased onboard the bus. Most long-distance regional buses leave from the bus station on Spårvägsgatan, while a few go from the section of Norra Vallgatan in front of Centralplan.

Bus 146 is a useful service to the ferries departing from Trelleborg (Skr51, 40 minutes); this service runs once or twice an hour. Bus 100 to Falsterbo (Skr51, one hour) is equally useful.

Long-Distance

There are two bus terminals with daily departures to Swedish and European destinations. Travelshop (Malmö Buss & Resecenter; 33 05 70; www.travelshop.se; Skeppsbron 10), north of the train station, by the harbour, services (and sells tickets for) several companies, including Swebus Express (0771-21 82 18; www.swebusexpress.com), which runs two to four times daily to Stockholm (Skr400 to Skr600, 8½ hours), four times to Jönköping (Skr293, 4½ hours) and up to 10 times daily to Göteborg (Skr270, three to four hours); five continue to Oslo (Skr442, eight hours).

Säfflebussen (0771-15 15 15; www.safflebussen.se) has six buses on the Copenhagen–Malmö–Göteborg route per day, with a couple originating from Berlin and continuing on to Oslo.

The second long-distance bus terminal, Öresundsterminalen (59 09 00; www.oresundsterminalen.se;