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Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [130]

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Skr550/700, d with bathroom Skr1100, discounted to Skr900) Lund’s oldest hotel is friendly and affordable, and on a quiet, central street. Rooms have parquet floors, cool white walls and washbasins (most bathrooms are shared). Breakfast (included in room prices) is brought to your door.

Lilla Hotellet i Lund (32 88 88; lillahotellet@telia.com; Bankgatan 7; s/d Skr1280/1480, discounted to Skr780/980; mid-Aug–mid-Jul; ) Partly housed in an old shoe factory, this homely spot peddles cosy rooms (think patchwork quilts and DVD players), as well as a sunny courtyard and guest lounge.

Hotell Oskar (18 80 85; www.hotelloskar.com; Bytaregatan 3; s/d Skr1395/1595, discounted to Skr895/1095; ) This dinky place in a 19th-century townhouse has smashing rooms filled with sleek Scandi design. It’s also well equipped, with DVD players, kettles and stereos.

Grand Hotel (280 61 00; hotel@grandilund.se; Bantorget 1; s Skr1525-1975, discounted to Skr795-1275, d Skr2175-2375, discounted to Skr1675-1775; ) Lund’s most luxurious establishment is the Grand, which opened in 1899 and is resplendent with gilt and chandeliers. Rooms are smallish, but decorated in grand style with heavy wooden beds, Persian carpets and cherub wallpaper. Extras include a sauna and upmarket dining at Gambrinus.

Eating & Drinking

Saluhallen (Mårtenstorget; Mon-Sat) A mouth-watering market hall, it peddles reasonably priced grub, from fresh fish and piping-hot pasta to Thai, kebabs and croissants.

Glasskulturen (211 00 14; Stortorget 8) On the main square, join the queues for delectable gourmet ice cream.

Café Ariman (13 12 63; Kungsgatan 2B; snacks around Skr40; 11am-midnight Mon, 11am-1am Tue-Thu, 11am-3am Fri & Sat, 3-11pm Sun, closed Sun in summer) Head to this hip, grungy hang-out for cathedral views, strong coffee and fine cafe fare such as ciabatta, salads and burritos. It’s popular with left-wing students: think nose-rings, dreads and leisurely chess games. From September to May, DJs hit the decks on Friday and Saturday nights.

Gattostretto (32 07 77; Kattesund 6A; salads Skr60; mains Skr170-210 9am-6pm Mon-Sat) Located over medieval ruins and co-run by an affable Roman chef, this breezy cafe-restaurant serves a tasty slice of dolce vita. Guzzle down proper Italian espresso and a slice of torta rustica, or long for Rome over hearty ragú, zesty artichoke salad or a warming pollo alla cacciatore (chicken cacciatore).

Ebbas Skafferi (13 41 56; Bytaregatan 5; lunch Skr65; 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pm Sat & Sun) Ebbas is the perfect cafe: think warm wooden tables, green plants and flowers, odd bits of artwork, a laid-back courtyard, and scrumptious coffee, tea and tasty grub such as hearty risotto and moreish cheesecake.

Govindas (12 04 13; Bredgatan 28; lunch Skr70; lunch Mon-Sat) In a quiet, leafy cobbled courtyard, vegetarian Govindas is a hit with kronor-conscious students.

&Bar (211 22 88; Mårtenstorget 9; lunch Skr70-80, dinner mains Skr145-225) Chic &Bar is relaxed enough to attract a range of people for its lunchtime bagels, salads and specials, while à la carte dinner mains traverse Swedish and international influences. From 10pm, head in for cocktails and smooth lounge tunes.

Gambrinus (280 61 00; Bantorget 1; lunch around Skr170, dinner mains Skr235-295, Lund menu Skr360) The star turn at the Grand Hotel’s gourmet nosh spot is the Lund menu, featuring creative interpretations of regional classics using seasonal local produce. While the speciality is sweetbreads, there’s a vegetarian menu for herbivorous guests.

Bantorget 9 (32 02 00; Bantorget 9; mains Skr245-315; from 6pm Mon-Sat) This is another gourmet darling, where you can snuggle down in cosy candlelight and feast on the likes of spring chicken with foie gras, almonds and pears. There’s a worldly wine list to further oil the evening.

Self-caterers should head to the ICA supermarket (Bangatan; 8am-10pm) opposite the train station. For alcohol, Systembolaget (Bangatan 10) is near the supermarket.

Entertainment

Pick up the brochure i Lund from the tourist office for the entertainment run-down.

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