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The sandy hook-shaped island of Måkläppen is a nature reserve, off-limits to the public from March to October. Residents include seals and over 50 species of birds, including little terns, Kentish plovers (rare in Sweden) and avocets; in the autumn, between one and three million migrating birds rest their wings here. Near the museum is Falsterbo Fågelstation (47 06 88; falsterbo@skof.se; Sjögatan; guided tours per person Skr30, minimum Skr300 for groups of less than 10; Apr, May & Aug-Oct, advanced booking required), a bird observatory studying these feathery visitors.

The super-friendly Ljungens Camping (47 11 32; ljungenscamping@telia.com; Strandbadsvägen; sites Skr160-200; mid-Apr–Sep) is a couple of kilometres from Falsterbo. Its amenities include minigolf.

Da Aldo (47 40 26; Mellangatan 47; gelato from Skr25, piadine Skr49; 8.30am-10pm summer, 11am-6pm Wed-Sun rest of year), in the town of Skanör, an easy 1.5km north of Falsterbo, is an outstanding cafe where Calabrian expat Aldo makes sublime gelato using strictly Italian ingredients and no added egg, cream or butter. Lunch options, from frittata and salads to piadine (Italian flat-bread sandwiches) and stuffed aubergine, are well priced and equally authentic. As for the coffee…buonissimo!

By the harbour, marine-chic Skanörs Fisk-rögeri (47 40 50; Skanörs Hamn; mains Skr190-455; lunch & dinner Jun-Aug, dinner Thu & Fri, lunch & dinner Sat & Sun Mar-May & Sep) is a must for seafood-lovers. The fish soup is exquisite and there’s a gourmet seafood deli to boot.

Bus 100 (Skr51, 55 minutes, every 30 minutes Monday to Saturday, every 30 to 60 minutes Sunday) runs from Malmö to Falsterbo and Skanör.

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TRELLEBORG

0410 / pop 41,000

Trelleborg is the main gateway between Sweden and Germany, with frequent ferry services. It’s not really on the tourist trail: if you’re entering Sweden from here, consider heading on for Malmö or Ystad.

Information

Banks and ATMs line Algatan.

Forex (CB Friisgatan 3; 8am-9.30pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat, noon-3pm Sun) Money exchange.

GZ (413 40; Algatan 66; per hr Skr20; noon-midnight Mon-Sun) Internet access.

Library (531 80; CB Friisgatan 17-19; 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 11am-2pm Sat, closed Sat Jun-Aug) Free internet access.

Tourist office (73 33 20; www.trelleborg.se/turism; Hamngatan 9; 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat, 10am-5pm Sun Jun-Aug; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri Sep-May) Inside the harbour-side complex, it also sells stamps.

Sights

Trelleborgen (460 77; admission free; 10am-5pm mid-Jun–Aug, 9am-5pm Mon-Fri Sep–mid-Jun) is a 9th-century Viking ring fortress, discovered in 1988 off Bryggaregatan (just west of the town centre). It’s built to the same pattern as Danish fortresses of the same era, showing the centralised power of Harald Bluetooth at work. A quarter of the palisaded fort and a wooden gateway have been recreated, as has a Viking farmhouse and a medieval house built within the walls. An on-site visitors centre (adult/under 15yr Skr40/free; 10am-5pm mid-Jun–Aug, 10am-3pm Mon-Fri Sep–mid-Jun) showcases finds from the archaeological digs, including Viking jewellery, grooming implements and a circa-10th-century skull illustrating the ancient trend of teeth filing.

Just east of the town centre, Trelleborgs Museum (73 30 50; Östergatan 58; adult/under 20yr Skr30/free, includes admission to Axel Ebbe Konsthall; 1-5pm Tue-Sun) covers a wide range of themes, including a 7000-year-old settlement discovered nearby.

By the town park, Axel Ebbe Konsthall (530 56; Hesekillegatan 1; adult/under 20yr incl admission to Trelleborgs Museum Skr30/free; 1-4pm Tue-Sun summer) features nude sculptures by Scanian Axel Ebbe (1868–1941). For a preview, check out the fountain Sjöormen, literally ‘the sea monster’, in Storatorget.

Sleeping & Eating

The tourist office can book private rooms from Skr300.

Dalabadets Camping (149 05; Dalabadets Strandväg 2; sites Skr200, 4-bed cabins from Skr450) This is the nearest camping ground, over 3km to the east. It’s a well-equipped place between Rd 9 and the beach.

Night Stop (410 70;