Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [155]
Other highlights include a superb sculpture hall, the Hasselblad Center (20 35 30) photographic collection, and temporary exhibitions showcasing next-gen Nordic art.
Outside, Götaplatsen is dominated by the bronze Poseidon fountain, infamous for scandalising locals upon its unveiling in 1931. This 7m-high colossus originally had private parts most men could only wish for. Alas it was all too much for Göteborg’s strait-laced citizens, who forced poor Poseidon to undergo drastic reduction surgery.
VARLDSKULTURMUSEET
In a striking building by London-based architects Cécile Brisac and Edgar Gonzalez, the enlightened Varldskulturmuseet (Museum of World Culture; 63 27 30; www.varldskulturmuseet.se; Södra Vägen 54; adult/under 21yr Skr40/free; noon-5pm Tue & Fri-Sun, noon-9pm Wed & Thu) sees ethnography, art and global politics collide in immersive multimedia exhibitions. Recent themes have included hip-hop culture and freedom movements across the globe.
SJÖFARTSMUSEET
The main museum of maritime history is Sjöfartsmuseet (368 35 50; www.sjofartsmuseum.goteborg.se; Karl Johansgatan 1-3; adult/under 25yr Skr40/free; 10am-5pm Tue-Sun, to 8pm Wed), by Stigberg-storget about 2km west of the city centre. Tram 3, 9 or 11 will get you there. The collection includes model ships, cannons, a ship’s medical room and a large collection of figureheads, such as the vicious-looking Vinthunden from the frigate with the same name. The attached aquarium (included in the entry fee) wriggles with Nordic marine life. Outside, the Sjömanstornet (Mariner’s Tower), topped by a statue of a grieving woman, commemorates Swedish sailors killed in WWI.
NATURHISTORISKA MUSEET
The Natural History Museum (775 24 00; www.gnm.se; Slottsskogsparken; adult/under 25yr Skr40/free; 11am-5pm Tue-Sun) contains the world’s only stuffed blue whale. In the lead-up to Christmas, visitors are occasionally allowed to step inside its mouth for that Jonah feeling. As natural history museums go, this is an impressive one, with an overall collection spanning 10 million specimens of wildlife from around the world. To get there, take tram 1 or 6.
NYA ÄLVSBORGS FÄSTNING
At the mouth of the Göta älv, squat red Elfsborgs Fortress has had a gripping history. Built in the 17th century to defend the young city from Danish attack, it saw action again in the early 18th century during the Great Nordic War. Visitors can see the church built for Karl XII’s troops, and the dungeons for when they misbehaved.
The fortress lies about 8km downstream from Göteborg. Boat trips and guided tours (adult/6-16yr/family Skr140/70/385) are run four times daily from early July to late August by Börjessons (Click here). Tours depart from Lilla Bommen harbour, north of the train station. Several are free for Göteborg Pass holders.
VOLVO MUSEUM
Pay homage to one of Sweden’s enduring icons at the Volvo Museum (66 48 14; Hisingen; adult/child Skr30/10; 10am-5pm Tue-Fri, 11am-4pm Sat & Sun), which contains everything from the company’s debut vehicle to the most cutting-edge experimental designs – including the first jet engine used by the Swedish Air Force.
The museum is about 8km west of the city centre at Arendal. Fittingly, it’s tricky to get to without a car. Take tram 5 or 10 to Eketrägatan, then bus 32 to Arendal Skans.
Parks & Gardens
Laid out in 1842 and recently restored to better reflect its original plan, the lush Trädgårdsföreningen (City Park; 365 58 58; www.tradgardsforeningen.se; Nya Allén; adult/under 15yr Skr15/free; 7am-8pm mid-Apr–late Sep, entrance fee 9am-7pm, 7am-6pm late Sep–mid-Apr, no entrance fee) is a large protected area off Nya Allén. Full of flowers and tiny cafes, it’s popular for lunchtime escapes and home to Europe’s largest rosarium, with around 2500 varieties. The gracious 19th-century Palmhuset (365 58 58; admission free; 10am-5pm May-Aug, 10am-4pm Sep-Apr) is a bite-size version of Crystal Palace in London, with five differently heated halls: look out for the impressive camellia collection and