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Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [160]

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TVs and heavenly pillows. Some rooms feature a mini-spa (three even have their own gym equipment), and the hip resto-bar is an after-work hot spot. The ultimate highlight is the rooftop pool (open May to September), which leans out over the edge for a dizzying dip. Check the website for packages.

The Scandic chain (which usually offers its best rates online) has several hotels in Göteborg, including the following:

Scandic Hotel Rubinen (751 54 00; rubinen@scandichotels.com; Kungsportsavenyn 24; r Skr750-2250; ) In the heart of the Avenyn action, with slick, recently renovated rooms and a restaurant–cocktail bar serving Caribbean-influenced dishes.

Scandic Hotel Europa (751 65 00; europa@scandichotels.com; Köpmansgatan 38; s Skr950-2250, d Skr1050-2350; ) With 6th-floor pool and sauna area.


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EATING

Göteborg isn’t short on great epicurean experiences, whether it’s New Nordic nosh devoured to DJ-spun tunes or late-night curbside crêpes. Stray off Kungsportsavenyn for anything from retro panino bars to champagne-and-lobster dining rooms. Cool cafes, cheap ethnic gems and foodie favourites abound in the Vasastan, Haga and Linné districts, often with lower prices than their tourist-trap Avenyn rivals. Alas, many places close on Sundays.

Restaurants

BUDGET

Andrum (13 85 04; Östra Hamngatan 19; large plate Skr70; 11am-9pm Mon-Fri, noon-8pm Sat & Sun) Vegetarians love this casual, meat-free spot with its value-for-money all-day lunch buffet. It’s simple, tasty, wholesome stuff, and cheerfully recommended.

Solrosen (Kaponjärgatan 4; dinner mains Skr75-80; 11.30am-11pm Mon-Thu, 11.30am-midnight Fri, 11.30am-1am Sat, 2-8pm Sun, closed Sun in summer) A 1970s survivor, this laid-back student favourite is a Haga institution (note the photos of passed-on regulars above the counter). Pay tribute over soulful vegetarian dishes and a bountiful salad buffet. For the best value, choose one of the hot dishes on the menu board, which also include the salad buffet in the price.

MIDRANGE

Publik (14 65 20; Andra Långgatan 20; lunch Skr65, mains Skr100-130; 11.30am-1am Mon-Sat) Arguably Göteborg’s coolest hang-out (think grit-chic interiors, local art exhibitions, DJ-spun tunes and creative indie crowds), this cafe-bar hybrid also serves brilliant, great-value grub like goat’s cheese–stuffed aubergines with red pesto potatoes. The well-priced house wine is perfectly drinkable and there’s a backyard courtyard for fine-weather lounging.

Sjöbaren (711 97 80; Haga Nygata 25; mains Skr100-260; 11am-11pm Mon-Thu, 11am-midnight Fri, noon-midnight Sat, 1-10pm Sun, opens 3pm Sun in summer) In the Haga district, cosy Sjöbaren combines nautical interiors with sublime Swedish seafood. If the weather’s on your side, chow down classics like gravlax or fish soup in the gorgeous garden courtyard.

Smaka (13 22 47; Vasaplatsen 3; mains Skr120-205; 5pm-2am Mon-Thu & Sun, 5pm-3am Fri & Sat) This lively, down-to-earth restaurant-bar cooks up brilliant, old-school Swedish husmanskost (home cooking) like the specialty meatballs with mashed potato and lingonberries. Mod-Swedish options might include a goat’s cheese soup with roasted beetroot and asparagus.

Björns Bar (701 79 79; Viktoriagatan 12; mains Skr125-145; 6pm-1am Mon-Thu, 5pm-3am Fri & Sat) Serious foodies and night owls swear by this stylish basement bolt hole, serving fabulous hot nosh until midnight, and cheese and antipasto platters until closing. Staff are passionate about the finely tuned food, which spans Swedish and Spanish flavours (think Kalix caviar on toasted brioche or Spanish blood sausage with tomato bread).

Tranquilo (13 45 55; Kungstorget 14; meals Skr140-235; 11.30am-late Mon-Sat, from 9pm Sun) Complete with glowing pink-and-blue bar and a giant Rio-style Jesus on the ceiling, this hip, bombastic resto-bar peddles grilled meats and tropic-flavoured brilliance like grilled mango and goat’s cheese burger with grilled corn and rhubarb chutney. Done, order a pineapple mojito and flirt to a bossa nova beat at the bar.

TOP END

Linnéa (16 11 83; Södra

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