Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [169]
KLÄDESHOLMEN
The ‘herring island’ of Klädesholmen, to the far south of Tjörn, is one of the west coast’s most flawless spots. A mash-up of red and white wooden cottages, its activity is fairly subdued due to the departure of the herring (there were once 30 processing factories here, today reduced to a handful). Find out more at the tiny herring museum (67 33 08; kladesholmens-museum@swipnet.se; Sillgränd 8; adult/child Skr10/5; 3-7pm Jul-early Aug, 3-7pm Sat & Sat rest of Aug).
Salt & Sill (67 34 80; www.saltosill.se; mains Skr175-345; May-Sep & Dec, call ahead other times) is a stylish waterside restaurant with an emphasis on local seafood and produce. The herring board is legendary, with herring prepared in six different ways with all the Scandi trimmings. In 2008 the owners opened Sweden’s first floating hotel (s/d Skr1490/1990, discounted to Skr1290/1590; ). A row of slick cubic buildings will house 22 contemporary rooms (and a suite), each featuring the hues of its namesake herb or spice.
ÅSTOL & RÖNNÄNG
Nearby Åstol looks straight out of a curious dream – think a tiny, barren chunk of rock dotted with rows of gleaming white houses that seem perched on top of each other from the sea. There’s not much to do, but it’s utterly loveable. Amble round the car-free streets, soak up the views of the other islands, and feast on fish at Åstols Rökeri (67 72 60; noon-midnight mid-Jun–mid-Aug), a fish smokery with summer restaurant attached.
You can reach Åstol by ferry from Rönnäng (Skr30, roughly hourly between 5.30am and 11.30pm).
Rönnängs Vandrarhem (67 71 98; Nyponvägen 5; dm from Skr250; ), an SVIF hostel in Rönnäng, about 1km from the ferry, is good and spacious, with one sizeable kitchen and a rambling, country home feel. There’s a leafy terrace for lazy summer barbecues.
Orust
0304 / pop 15,370
Sweden’s third-biggest island, Orust (www.orust.se) boasts lush woodlands and some breathtakingly pretty fishing villages. It also has a thriving boat-building industry, with over half of Sweden’s sailing craft made here. A bridge connects Orust to Tjörn, its southern neighbour.
Orust’s tourist office (33 44 94; turistbyran@orust.se; Norra Strandvägen 3; noon-4pm Mon-Sat, 10am-2pm Sun mid-Jun–mid-Aug, noon-4pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat mid-Aug–mid-Jun) is in the town of Henån.
There’s an outstanding STF hostel, Tofta gård (503 80; www.toftagard.se; dm/s/d Skr230/330/460), near Stocken in the island’s west, about 5km from the larger village of Ellös. It’s located in an old farmhouse and outbuildings in a blissfully bucolic setting, with good walking, swimming and canoeing nearby. There’s also a cafe and restaurant here in peak season. Book ahead between October and May.
MOLLÖSUND
Super-cute Mollösund, in the island’s southwest, is the oldest fishing village on the Bohuslän coast. There’s a picture-perfect harbour and several scenic walking paths for a gentle pick-me-up.
Mollösunds Hembygdsmuseum (214 69; admission free; 4-6pm late Jun–mid-Aug, ring to visit at other times) is in an old fisherfolk’s house near the water and has exhibits about local life.
Slightly inland from the harbour, Prästgårdens Pension (210 58; www.prastgardens.se; Kyrkvägen; d from Skr650; ) is the most delightful little spot, with high ceilings, vintage wallpaper, antiques, art and a soothing cottage vibe.
Vandrarhem, Café & Restaurant Emma (211 75; www.cafeemma.com; sandwiches Skr90-135, salads Skr130, mains around Skr165; restaurant 11am-midnight Jun–mid-Sep) is an excellent place right on the harbour with a small, welcoming hostel (dorm beds from Skr250) and a cosy cafe-restaurant serving hearty dishes created from local and organic ingredients (the fish soup is exceptional). Out of season, book for the hostel and phone to check restaurant hours.
Mollösunds Wärdshus (211 08; Kyrkvägen 9; lunch Skr125, mains from Skr155; restaurant mid-May–Sep, Sat & Sun Apr–mid-May & Oct-Dec) is an upmarket 19th-century inn featuring 10 well-turned-out rooms (available from Easter to December;