Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [177]
Innovatum Science Center (28 94 00; www.innovatum.se; adult/7-19yr/family Skr60/40/130; 9am-5pm mid-Jun–Aug, 11am-4pm Tue-Sun Sep–mid-Jun), next door to the Saab Bilmuseum, is a fantastic science centre with interactive experiments aimed mainly at children. But don’t let that put you off: push the little blighters out of the way and revel in the gyroscopes and whirlpool machines. Why wasn’t physics fun like this when we were kids?
Innovatum also manages Galleri Nohab Smedja (28 94 00; admission varies; 9am-5pm Mon-Fri Jun-Aug during exhibitions), an old smithy’s workshop now used for temporary art exhibitions. The gallery is opposite the museum, just behind the tourist office.
In four minutes, the Innovatum Linbana (cable car; 28 94 00; adult/1-19yr Skr40/20; 9am-5pm mid-Jun–Aug, phone for May & Sep times) will sweep you over the canal to the hydroelectricity area. Once you’re on the far side of the canal, follow the stairs down to the river, where you’ll find one of Sweden’s most unusual industrial buildings, the potent-looking Olidan power station, which supplied much of the country’s electricity in the early 20th century. There are three 30-minute tours daily in summer (ask the tourist office for details).
Take a wander southwest to Slussområde, a lovely waterside area of parkland and ancient lock systems. Here you’ll find cafes and the Kanalmuseet (47 22 51; Åkersberg; adult/child Skr20/free; 11am-7pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug; noon-5pm Sat & Sun May–mid-Jun & rest of Aug), which runs through the history of the canal as well as exhibiting over 50 model ships.
Northeast near the Hojum power station, be wowed by spectacular cascades when the waterfall (3pm daily Jul & Aug, 3pm Sat May, Jun & Sep) is unleashed. Normally the water is diverted through the power stations, but at set times the sluice gates are opened and 300,000L per second thunders through. For an even more magnificent sight, wait for the night-time illuminated waterfall (11pm) during the Waterfall Days festival held mid-July.
There are also two- to three-hour canal tours (per person from Skr195) in summer; enquire at the tourist office for times.
Sleeping & Eating
Gula Villan (129 60; trollhattansvandrarhem@telia.com; Tingvallavägen 12; dm Skr150; ) The cheery STF hostel, in a pretty old yellow villa, is about 200m from the train station. Breakfast and bikes are available.
Hotell Bele (125 30; www.hotellbele.se; Kungsgatan 37; s/d Skr995/1095; ) Central, no-frills Bele sits on a pedestrianised street in the heart of town. Accommodation is basic but comfortable, and there’s a sauna and solarium for pamper-seeking guests.
Strandgatan (837 17; Strandgatan; panini Skr70, mains Skr90-100) This trendy bistro is one of the best, busiest and cheapest spots in town for a casual feed and chill. In a fantastic location, with canalside seating in summer, it peddles everything from fresh panini, salads and juices to quiche, fish and chips, plump muffins…and Persian tea!
Albert Hotell (129 90; info@alberthotell.se; Strömsberg; mains Skr200-400; dinner Mon-Sat Jun–mid-Aug, lunch & dinner mid-Aug–May; ) This marvellous restaurant-hotel combo is based in a splendid 19th-century wooden villa, overlooking the town from a verdant slope just across the river. Superb, mod-Nordic dishes might include chocolate and cognac sorbet with a nougat-flavoured chocolate tart and a sesame- and poppy-seed biscuit. The hotel itself offers 27 contemporary rooms (singles/doubles Skr1100/1350) in a neighbouring modernist building (request a river-view room), as well as a vintage suite in the main building for hopeless romantics. The place is an easy 10-minute walk across the river from central Trollhättan or a five-minute taxi