Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [189]
Samariterhemmets Gästhem (10 34 00; fax 10 83 75; Samaritergränd 2; s/d incl breakfast from Skr500/760) Run by the Swedish church, this clean, central and inviting guesthouse shares a building with a church. Old-style rooms with separate bathrooms are decorated in cool creams and antique furniture.
Hotel Uppsala (480 50 00; hoteluppsala@profilhotels.se; Kungsgatan 27; s/d from Skr1350/1550, discounted to Skr750/800; ) Uppsala’s largest hotel, and one of its nicest, Hotel Uppsala has all the standard business-hotel amenities plus Hästens beds, birchwood floors, and microwaves and fridges in many rooms. There’s also a new Scottish-style pub attached to the hotel.
Best Western Hotel Svava (13 00 30; www.bestwestern.se; Bangårdsgatan 24; s/d Skr1375/1625, discounted to Skr675/800; ) Named after one of Odin’s Valkyrie maidens, Hotel Svava, right opposite the train station, is a very comfortable top-end business-style hotel with weekend discounts that make it a smashing deal.
Eating
RESTAURANTS & CAFES
Ofvandahls (13 42 04; Sysslomansgatan 3-5; cakes & snacks around Skr40) Something of an Uppsala institution, this classy konditori (bakery-cafe) dates back to the 19th century and is a cut above your average coffee-and-bun shop. It’s endorsed by no less a personage than the king, and radiates old-world charm; somehow those faded red-striped awnings just get cuter every year.
Eko Caféet (12 18 45; Drottninggatan 5; snacks Skr50-70) This funky little place with retro and mismatched furniture serves some of the best coffee in town. It does Italian-style whole food, turns into a tapas bar on Wednesday to Saturday evenings, and frequently hosts live jazz and folk, as well as changing art exhibits and general studenty goings-on. Things quieten down somewhat in the summer, when it just opens for lunch Monday to Friday.
Amazing Thai (15 30 10; Bredgränd 14; starters Skr50, mains Skr110-140; lunch & dinner) This small, family-friendly spot is popular for lunch thanks to its great-value buffet (from Skr65). The evening menu features a good selection of fragrant stir-fries, noodle dishes and curries, as well as a set menu (Skr139).
Tzatziki (15 03 33; Fyristorg 4; starters Skr50-70, mains Skr110-170) Tzatziki will supply all your moussaka and souvlaki needs. There’s cosy seating in the 16th-century interior, and in summer the outside tables by the riverside thrum with diners. Service is fast, the food tasty and there are several veggie options.
Hambergs Fisk (71 00 50; Fyristorg 8; lunch from Skr80, dinner mains Skr150-240; Tue-Sat) No need to ask at the tourist office about where to eat: if you’re there, you’ll be close enough to smell the aromas of dill and seafood tempting you into this excellent fish restaurant. Self-caterers should check out the fresh fish counter inside.
Domtrappkällaren (13 09 55; info@domtrappkallaren.se; Sankt Eriksgränd 15; lunch from Skr85, dinner mains Skr200-290; Mon-Sat) Once a prison, this is now a top-notch restaurant set in an atmospheric cellar (lunch is served upstairs) at the foot of the cathedral. It specialises in gamey dishes and Swedish cooking, such as venison, reindeer and cloudberry soufflé.
QUICK EATS & SELF-CATERING
Jalla (Stora Torget 1; meals Skr50-85; 10am until late) Get your fix of cheap and (relatively) healthful felafel, kebabs and meze platters at this efficient fast-food joint right on the main square; it’s packed with young people at all hours.
Saluhallen (Sankt Eriks Torg; 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat) Stock up on meat, fresh fish, cheeses and fancy chocolates at this indoor market, or hit one of the restaurant corners for a bite; a couple stay open late for dinner, with pleasant terrace bars available in summer.
Find groceries at the central Hemköp supermarket (Stora Torget; to 10pm). For alcohol,