Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [194]
The runes in the dragon’s body, unrelated to the legend, explain that a woman named Sigrid raised a nearby bridge (the abutments can still be seen) in memory of her husband Holmger. A walking path along the river starts from the parking lot; ask at the tourist office about raft trips.
The carving is situated near Sundbyholms Slott and Mälaren lake, 12km northeast of Eskilstuna. To get there, take bus 225.
OTHER SIGHTS
The Rademachersmedjorna (Rademacher Forges; 710 13 71; Rademachergatan; admission free; 10am-4pm Mon-Fri year-round, plus some weekends in summer) contain the carefully preserved 17th-century remnants of Eskilstuna’s ironworking past. Visitors can see workshops where the tradition continues: iron-, silver- and goldsmiths all still work here. Stay alert for sightings of ‘Sundin of the Gab’, a local craftsman who produced masterworks despite his convention-flouting lifestyle.
Faktoriet (10 23 75; admission free; 11am-4pm Tue-Sun), on the island Strömsholmen, tells the story of Eskilstuna’s industrial and cultural heritage; it was closed for renovations at time of research, and due to reopen in 2009, so check with the tourist office for details.
Eskilstuna Konstmuseum (710 13 69; Portgatan 2, Munktellstaden; admission free; 11am-4pm Tue, Wed & Fri, 11am-8pm Thu, noon-4pm Sat & Sun) has an ambitious and very cool art collection in a beautiful space in the Munktell area. A chic little restaurant is attached.
In Torshälla, 6km north of the town centre, Brandt Contemporary Glass (35 52 30; brandtglass.com; Klockberget; admission Skr30; 11am-4pm Fri & Sat), just behind the church, is a workshop and gallery exhibiting vases and sculptures. Ebelingmuseet (10 73 05; Eskilstunavägen 5; admission free; noon-4pm Wed-Sun) has bizarre steel sculptures by Allan Ebeling and paintings by his daughter Marianne, plus various temporary exhibitions. The old wooden houses and pretty riverside areas in Torshälla are also worth a look. Take bus 2 or 15 from Eskilstuna to Torshälla (Skr21, 40 minutes).
Sleeping & Eating
STF Hostel Eskilstuna (51 30 80; www.vilstasporthotell.nu; dm Skr160, s/d hostel from Skr300/420, hotel from Skr695/890; ) Lying in the Vilsta nature reserve 2km south of town, this hostel is well provided for – all rooms have en-suite bathrooms and TV. It’s part of the Vilsta sport complex, so there are gym, Jacuzzi and sports facilities on hand. Hotel rooms are also available; room rates include breakfast. Take bus 12 from Fristadstorget.
City Hotell Eskilstuna (10 88 50; www.cityhotell.se; Järnvägsplan 1; s/d/tr/q from Skr975/1470/1833/2080, discounted to Skr645/920/1140/1388) Right opposite the train station, this is among the better hotels, Rooms are spacious and comfortable, and some have balconies or cylindrical Swedish stoves, giving them a hint of the 19th century.
Sundbyholms Slott (016-42 84 00; www.sundbyholms-slott.se; weekend packages from Skr1295; ) Luxury suites, perfect for a romantic weekend, are available in the tasteful mansion here, 12km northeast of Eskilstuna on the road toward the Sigurd carvings (catch bus 225). The castle, by Mälaren lake, also houses a top-quality restaurant, and there’s a popular beach and walking trails nearby.
Café Kaka (13 10 94; Kyrkogatan 6; meals Skr50-75) Kaka is a funky, upbeat cafe and meeting place, serving sandwiches, pasta and salads, with the occasional live DJ.
Restaurang Tingsgården (51 66 20; Rådhustorget 2; starters Skr70-115, mains Skr150-220; 11.30am-2pm & 6-9pm Mon-Fri, 1-9pm Sat, 1-8pm Sun) This intimate restaurant, inside a wonderful wooden 18th-century house in the old town, is a treat. Its menu is heavy on the meat and fish, from lamb and goose to mountain trout, with a dessert menu of Swedish favourites. The set ‘Sverigemenu’ (Skr425)