Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [198]
Aguélimuseet (138 20; www.sala.se/turism/aguelimuseet; Vasagatan 17; admission free; 11am-4pm Wed-Sun) exhibits the largest display of oils and watercolours by local artist Ivan Aguéli (1869–1917) in Sweden, as well as work by some of his contemporaries. In summer there are also temporary exhibitions, including a recent display of Bertil Vallien glasswork. Entry is via the town library.
The houses and courtyard called Norrmanska Gården (Norrbygatan) were built in 1736; the area is now home to shops and a cafe.
Sleeping & Eating
STF Vandrarhem & Camping Sala (127 30; sites from Skr50, dm Skr140, s/d from Skr210/280) This haven of tranquillity is in the woods near the Mellandammen pond, 2km southwest of the centre. It’s a pet-friendly complex with camping, minigolf and a homely cafe (open June to August). Walk along Gröna Gången from the bus station, or take the Silverlinjen bus to the water tower and walk the rest of the way. Reservations are necessary from September to mid-May.
Hotell Svea (105 10; www.hotellsvea.com; Väsbygatan 19; s/d Skr595/695, discounted to Skr495/595) Friendly 10-roomed Svea puts the emphasis on its personal service. Rooms are old-fashioned but clean and comfortable, and it’s exceptionally handy for the train and bus station.
Norrmanska Kök & Bar (174 73; Brunnsgatan 26; lunch from Skr65, dinner mains Skr85-150; 11am-2pm Mon & Tue, 11am-10pm Wed & Thu, noon-1am Fri & Sat) This restaurant, in a rustic 18th-century wooden courtyard, has a great outdoor patio and includes a cute pub. Lunch meals include pasta, panini, baked potatoes and salads. It’s a popular evening spot, too, with a decent dinner menu.
Värdshuset Gruvcaféet (195 45; mains Skr80-150; 11am-5pm May-Aug) If you’re out sightseeing at the mine, this charming cafe, in a wooden building (dating from 1810), does good cakes, sandwiches and hot dishes.
Getting There & Around
For transport to and from Västerås, Click here. Going to or from Uppsala, take regional bus 848 (1¼ hours, hourly Monday to Friday, nine buses Saturday and Sunday). Sala is on the main Stockholm–Mora rail line (via Uppsala), with daily trains roughly every two hours (Skr143, 1¾ hours).
Ask about bike hire at the tourist office.
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ÄNGELSBERG
0223
Looking more like a collection of gingerbread houses than an industrial relic, Engelsberg Bruk, a Unesco World Heritage site in the tiny village of Ängelsberg, was one of the most important early-industrial ironworks in Europe. During the 17th and 18th centuries, its rare timber-clad blast furnace and forge (still in working order) were state-of-the-art technology, and a whole town sprang up around them. Today you can wander the perfectly preserved estate, made up of a mansion and park, workers’ homes and industrial buildings. Guided tours (Skr50) run daily from mid-June to mid-August, and less frequently from May to mid-June and mid-August to mid-September; call 131 00 for details or pop into the tourist information hut near the parking area.
Nya Servering (300 18; 11am-8pm) is not far from Ängelsberg train station and serves fast food, coffee and simple sandwiches. There’s a good view from here across to the island Barrön on Åmänningen lake, where the world’s oldest-surviving oil refinery is located; it was opened in 1875 and closed in 1902.
Ängelsberg is around 60km northwest of Västerås, from where regional trains run every hour or two (Skr84, 45 minutes); from Ängelsberg train station it’s a 1.5km walk north to the Engelsberg Bruk site. If you have your own wheels, it’s a gorgeous drive from pretty much any direction.
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NORA
0587 / pop 10,530
One of Sweden’s most seductive old wooden towns, Nora sits snugly on the shores of a little lake, clearly confident in its ability to charm the pants off anyone. Slow your pace and succumb to its cobbled streets, steam trains, mellow boat rides and decadent