Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [201]
STF Vandrarhem Örebro/Grenadjären (31 02 40; www.grenadjaren.se; Kaptensgatan 1; dm/s/d without bathroom Skr160/330/360, with bathroom Skr220/370/460, flats from Skr550; ) This large hostel in a former military building 1.6km northeast of the train station has bright, sunny rooms, a spacious kitchen and good, modern facilities. There are also well-equipped flats for up to four people in the apartment complex next door. Bicycle hire is available and encouraged (Skr70/300 per day/week). Take bus 16 or 31.
Hotell Storgården (12 02 00; www.hotellstorgarden.se; Fredsgatan 11; s/d from Skr650/790, discounted to Skr500/595) It could do with a lick of paint, but this 1st-floor budget hotel is handily central. Rooms, with shuttered windows, are large and airy – all have TVs and most have private facilities.
Behrn Hotell (12 00 95; www.behrnhotell.se; Stortorget 12; s/d Skr1095/1395, discounted to Skr645/845; ) Excellently situated on the main square, the Behrn Hotell goes the extra mile, with homely rooms individually decorated, ranging from strictly business to farmhouse to edgy modern Scandinavian. Do it right and get a room with a balcony or a suite with old wooden beams, chandeliers and a Jacuzzi. There’s also a spa, and a restaurant that serves dinner Tuesday to Friday.
Elite Stora Hotellet (15 69 00; info.orebro@elite.se; Drottninggatan 1; s/d from Skr1200/1500, discounted to Skr600/795; ) This is the pick of the town’s hotels. Many of the sumptuous, Scandinavian-luxury rooms have stunning views of the castle, and all offer the mod cons you’d expect from an upmarket chain. It also has a fine-dining restaurant, Slottskällaren (right).
Eating
Hälls Konditori Stallbacken (611 07 66; Engelbrektsgatan 12; light meals & snacks Skr35-65) One of two locations of this bakery-cafe (the other’s in Järntorget), Hälls is a classic old-style konditori. Go for salads, quiche, sandwiches and teetering piles of creamy cakes and pastries.
Farbror Melkers (611 81 99; Stortorget 6; meals around Skr60) If you’re the modern sort, head for this stylish place, with good light meals (sandwiches, baked potatoes), plus a large window so you can stare onto the square.
Bredbar (31 50 20; Kungsgatan 1; salads from Skr60; 10am-8pm Mon-Thu, 10am-7pm Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun) In summer, Bredbar is an ultrapopular place for lunch, thanks to its outdoor courtyard seats. A constant dance of customers swirls in and out for ciabattas, huge bowls of salad and pasta, or hotplate dishes.
Pacos (10 10 46; Olaigatan 13A; lunch from Skr65, dinner mains Skr80-150; 11am-11pm Mon-Thu, 11am-midnight Fri & Sat, noon-5pm Sun) OK, maybe Tex-Mex isn’t exactly what you expected to be eating in the middle of Sweden, but the fun decor and chirpy music at Pacos make for a nice change of pace, and the lunch specials are good value, especially the pizza-pasta-salad buffet (Skr79).
Slottskällaren (15 69 60; Drottninggatan 1; mains Skr190-225; lunch Mon-Fri Sep-Jun, dinner from 5pm Tue-Sat year-round) The restaurant at the equally posh Elite Stora Hotellet (left) offers fine dining and a good wine cellar in the atmospheric 14th-century vaults, or head out on the terrace where you can drink in the glorious castle views.
Cheap eat options such as pizza and kebabs abound. For self-caterers there’s a supermarket in the Kompassen centre on Stortorget.
Drinking & Entertainment
Njuta (10 19 00; Kungsgatan 4; 11am-10pm Mon-Thu, 11am-1am Fri & Sat, noon-midnight Sun) Formerly the ubertrendy Babar, this sleek hang-out is still fashionable with young, hip students; the menu gets more attention these days and includes tapas and Asian fusion dishes (lunch from Skr69; dinner mains Skr130 to Skr170).
Bishops Arms (15 69 20; until at least midnight) Whether or not you’re convinced by the ‘authentic English pub’ schtick, the bar’s outdoor drinking area, with super castle views, is a swinging spot on a summer evening. There are also pub meals available for under Skr100.
Harrys (10 89 89; Hamnplan; from 5pm) Though it’s part of a sort of blah chain, Harrys is in a good location