Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [204]
For green spaces and picnic spots, seek out Mariebergsskogen (29 69 90; www.mariebergsskogen.se; Stadspark; admission free; 7am-10pm), a leisure park/open-air museum/animal park in the southwestern part of town (about 1km from the centre). Take bus 1 or 31.
It’s worth peeking into the 18th-century domkyrka (10am-7pm Mon-Fri, 10am-4pm Sat, 10am-6pm Sun Jun-Aug, 10am-4pm Sep-May), a soothing space with chandeliers and votive ships. You can visit the small and creepy old town prison (Karlbergsgatan 3; admission free; 10am-5pm) in the basement of Clarion Hotel Bilan (opposite), with original cells and prisoners’ letters. On the eastern river branch, find Gamla Stenbron, Sweden’s longest stone bridge at 168m.
From Tuesday to Saturday late June to mid-August, there are regular two-hour boat cruises (21 99 43; adult/child Skr80/50) on Vänern lake, leaving from the harbour behind the train station. A cheaper option (Tuesday to Sunday, summer only) is the ‘boat bus’ – city ‘bus’ 92 circles Karlstad on the water, and you can use your regular city bus ticket (Skr19).
Sleeping
Skutbergets Camping (53 51 20; www.camping.se/s10; sites low/high season Skr150/205, cabins from Skr575) This big friendly lakeside campground, 7km west of town off the E18 motorway, is part of a large sports recreation area, with beach volleyball, a driving range, minigolf, exercise tracks and a mountain-bike course. There are also sandy and rocky beaches nearby. Take bus 18.
Hotell Freden (21 65 82; www.fredenhotel.com; Fredsgatan 1; dm Skr175, s/d Skr510/610, discounted to Skr400/440) One of a number of central hotels opposite the train station, Freden is a simple budget hotel with comfortable single, double and dorm rooms with shared bathrooms.
STF Vandrarhem Karlstad (56 68 40; karlstad.vandrarhem@swipnet.se; dm Skr195, s/d from Skr320/540; ) The hostel, a newly renovated military building, is off the E18 at Kasernhöjden, 1km southwest of Karlstad’s centre, and has good facilities. Take bus 100.
Clarion Hotel Bilan (10 03 00; cc.bilan@choice.se; Karlbergsgatan 3; s/d from Skr1320/1630, discounted to Skr990/1190; ) The town’s old jail cells have been converted into large, bright and cleverly decorated rooms with exposed-wood ceiling beams and funky shapes – and a display in the basement letting you in on the building’s history. Prices include an evening buffet.
Eating & Drinking
Make tracks to the main square, Stora Torget, and its surrounds for good eating and drinking options – most have outdoor summer seating.
Valfrids Krog (18 30 40; Östra Torggatan; snacks Skr45, mains Skr150-220) This is a relaxed spot for a drink or meal, with light, tapas-style snacks (such as mini-chorizo, chicken drumsticks and asparagus), and good Swedish and international mains catering to most tastes.
Kebab House (15 08 15; Västra Torggatan 9; meals from Skr50) Don’t be fooled by the name – the Kebab House is a cut above regular fast-food places and serves good-value pizza, kebabs, pasta and salads. In summer, battle your way to one of the popular outdoor tables, in the middle of the busy pedestrianised street.
Källaren Munken (18 51 50; restaurang@munken.nu; Västra Torggatan 17; lunch Skr65, mains Skr195-255; closed Sun & mid-Jun–mid-Aug) Inspired gourmet meals, like pistachio-baked lamb with artichoke butter, are served up in this elegant but cosy 17th-century vaulted cellar.
The Hemköp supermarket (15 22 00; Fredsgatan 4) is inside Åhléns, and Systembolaget (15 56 00; Drottninggatan 26) is nearby.
The huge Ankdammen (18 11 10; Magasin 1, Inre Hamn; Jun-Aug), on a floating jetty at the harbour,