Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [207]
You can catch boat trips on the Freya af Fryken (opposite) from Torsby.
Looking like something you might use to smash atoms, the world’s longest ski tunnel (1.3km) is Torsby’s Fortum Ski Tunnel (270 00; www.fortumskitunneltorsby.se; Vasserudsvägen 11, Valberget; adult/child rental packet Skr290/150, 3hr pass Skr180/120; noon-7pm Tue-Fri, 10am-5pm Sat & Sun Jun-Jul & Dec–mid-Jan; 9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 9am-5pm Sun Aug-Nov; 3-7pm Thu-Fri, 10am-3pm Sat & Sun mid-Jan–Feb). The arena also contains the world’s only indoor biathlon shooting range.
Skiing outdoors is possible from December through early April, 20km north of Torsby at Hovfjället (313 00; www.hovfjallet.se). There are several ski lifts and a variety of runs. Day passes start at Skr245/200 per adult/child. Alpine ski hire (312 55) per day costs Skr230/190 per adult/child. The resort also offers dogsledding on weekends, plus other activities such as snowshoeing, mountain biking and wolf-viewing trips.
Sleeping & Eating
Torsby Camping (710 95; www.torsbycamping.se; Bredviken; sites Skr150, cabins from Skr350; May–mid-Sep) With its child-friendly beach, playgrounds and minigolf, this large, well-equipped lakeside campground (5km south of town along Rd 45) is a popular family spot. There’s a variety of huts and chalets for rent, including a cool ‘studio’ cottage with a lake-facing picture window (Skr950).
Vägsjöfors Herrgård (313 30; info@vagsjoforsherrgard.com; dm Skr200, B&B per person from Skr350) Twenty kilometres north of Torsby, by a stunning lake, is this large manor house. B&B rooms are individually decorated so it’s hard to say what you’ll get, but the decor is genteel, and there are hostel beds too. Lunch is also served (Skr70, noon to 3pm).
Hotell Örnen (146 64; hotell-ornen@telia.com; Östmarksvägen 4; s/d Skr740/890, 1-/2-/3-/4-bed apt Skr890/1100/1310/1520) Cosy Örnen is a pretty lemon-coloured place set behind a white picket fence smack-bang in the town centre. Bright white Swedish-style rooms practically vibrate with wholesomeness and folky charm. There are also similar flatlets with private kitchens.
Heidruns Bok- & Bildcafé (421 26; www.heidruns.se; Fensbol 39; fika from Skr28; noon-5pm mid-Jun–Aug) In summer there’s live music, poetry and other entertainment at this charming cafe, run by local poet Bengt Berg; Sundays are the big day for entertainment. You can feast on books and artwork, or on excellent home-baked cakes. Heidruns is 10km north of Torsby, at Fensbol on Rd 45.
Faktoriet (149 80; Båthamnen; meals around Skr80; 11.30am-10pm Mon-Thu, noon-2am Fri & Sat, noon-8pm Sun) By far the most appealing eatery in Torsby is down at the harbour (at the far end of Sjögatan). With a patio deck over the water, this is a cool restaurant with light meals (pasta, baked potatoes, fajitas) and a popular bar.
Getting There & Around
Click here for travel information. There are a few buses that run north of Torsby, but generally on weekdays only.
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DALARNA
FALUN
023 / pop 55,000
An unlikely combination of industrial and adorable, Falun is home to the region’s most important copper mine and, as a consequence, the source of the deep-red paint that renders Swedish country houses so uniformly cute. It’s the main city of Dalarna, putting it within easy striking distance of some of Sweden’s best attractions, and the town itself is a pretty place to roam. Falu Kopparbergsgruva (Copper Mountain mine) is unique enough to appear on Unesco’s World Heritage List. Even more compelling is the home of painter