Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [209]
Dalarnas Museum (76 55 00; www.dalarnasmuseum.se; Stigaregatan 2-4; admission free; 10am-5pm Tue-Fri, noon-5pm Sat & Sun) is a super introduction to Swedish folk art, music and costumes. Selma Lagerlöf’s study is preserved here, and there are ever-changing art and craft exhibitions.
A sea of baroque blue-and-gold hits you at Kristine Kyrka (545 70; Stora Torget; 10am-6pm Jun-Aug, 10am-4pm Sep-May), which shows off the riches brought to town by the 17th-century copper trade.
Falun’s oldest building is Stora Kopparbergs Kyrka (546 00; Kyrkbacksvägen 8; 10am-6pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Sat, 9am-6pm Sun), dating from the late 14th century, with brick vaulting and folk-art flowers running round the walls.
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FAT MATS
At Falun’s cathedral, Stora Kopparbergs Kyrka, look on the southern side of the churchyard for the grave of ‘Fat Mats’, aka Mats Israelsson. Mats was a miner whose well-preserved corpse was found in 1719, when the mine that had collapsed on him 50 years earlier was drained. Sulfates in the water had essentially pickled him. His corpse looked so healthy that when it was put on display, his former fiancée (by then an old woman) recognized him and fainted. He was displayed for about 30 years, until the preservative effects wore off and he was buried properly in 1749.
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Hopptornen (835 61; 10am-6pm Sun-Thu, 10am-11pm Fri & Sat mid-May–mid-Aug), the tower and ski jump in the hills behind the town, has great views; you can either walk or take a lift to the top (Skr20).
Sleeping
Lugnets Camping & Stugby (835 63; lugnet-anl@falun.se; sites Skr190, simple 2-bed huts from Skr210, cabins Skr700; ) This long, thin camp site is 2km northeast of town, in the ski and sports area. Amenities are good: crazy golf, boules and a nearby open-air swimming pool will keep kids amused. Take bus 705 or 713.
Falu Fängelse Vandrarhem (79 55 75; info@falufangelse.se; Villavägen 17; dm/s Skr210/300; ) The SVIF hostel really feels like what it is – a former prison. Dorm beds are in cells, with heavy iron doors and thick walls, concrete floors, steel lockers for closets etc. The place is extremely friendly, though, and common areas are spacious and full of well-worn, den-like furniture. There’s a back deck in summer. The shower and toilet facilities are somewhat limited, so it’s worth asking for a room with bathroom if available.
Hotel Falun (291 80; Trotzgatan 16; s/d with shared shower Skr520/620, with private shower Skr620/720; ) There are some good hotel choices near the tourist office, including this place, which has comfortable modern rooms (cheaper rooms have private toilet and shared shower).
Scandic Hotel Lugnet Falun (669 22 00; falun@scandic-hotels.com; Svärdsjögatan 51; s/d from Skr1220/1440, discounted to Skr640/840; ) This large, modern building stands out a mile with its ski-jump design. It has heaps of facilities, including a restaurant, a bar and even a bowling hall in the basement! The hotel is just east of the centre on Rd 80, close to Lugnet.
Eating & Drinking
Bryggcaféet (233 30; Fisktorget; fika Skr35; 10am-6pm) This fab cafe is in a dinky little building that was once the fire station. It serves good coffee and cakes, and has a large deck by the river.
Kopparhattan Café & Restaurang (191 69; Stigaregatan 2-4; lunch buffet Skr80, mains Skr75-150) An excellent choice is this funky, arty cafe-restaurant, attached to Dalarnas Museum. Choose from sandwiches, soup or a good vegetarian buffet for lunch; and light veggie, fish and meat evening mains. There’s an outside terrace overlooking the river, and live music on Friday nights in summer.
Rådhus Källaren (254 00; Stora Torget; dagens lunch Skr90-110, mains Skr255-275; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) The town hall’s atmospheric 17th-century cellars are another good spot for upmarket dining – better yet is the garden upstairs, open for dining in summer. Dishes are a Swedish-world fusion, focusing on meaty mains. The bar next