Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [211]
Leksands Kyrka (807 00; Kyrkallén; 10am-6pm Jun–mid-Aug, 9.30am-3.30pm mid-Aug–Jun), with its distinctive onion dome, dates from the early 13th century, but has been extensively renovated and enlarged. The church contains extravagant baroque furnishings; check the posted schedules for guided tours and evening concerts in summer.
Nearby is Leksands Konstmuseum (79 79 74; www.leksandskonstmuseum.se; Kyrkallén 8; adult/under 18yr Skr50/free; 11am-4pm May-Aug), which is fairly small but hosts strong collections of work by both young and well-established regional artists.
Siljansnäs Naturum (221 05; Siljansnäs; admission free; 10am-6pm May-Aug; 9am-5pm Wed, Fri, Sat & Sun Sep-Apr), 14km northwest of Leksand, has information about the meteor and local flora and fauna, with a slightly moth-eaten collection of 50 stuffed animals. Two-hour English-language guided tours of the nature reserve take place at 11am Mondays and Fridays. The highlight is the 22m-high viewing tower, from where you get stunning 360-degree views around the lake. Bus 84 runs from Leksand to Siljansnäs, from where it’s a 300m walk to Naturum.
SLEEPING & EATING
Quick eats surround the main square, where you’ll also find branches of all the main supermarket chains.
STF Vandrarhem Leksand (152 50; info@vandrarhemleksand.se; Parkgården, Källberet; dm Skr150; ) It’s a little out of the way (2km south of town), but this is a lovely wee hostel and Dalarna’s oldest, with ultracute wooden huts built around a flowery courtyard. Bikes are available for rent (Skr70 per day). Reserve early, as it’s popular with groups.
Hotell Leksand (145 70; www.hotelleksand.com; Leksandsvägen 7; s/d from Skr800/900; ) This is a small, modern and conveniently situated hotel in the heart of town. The rooms are mostly nondescript, but the people here are friendly and it’s not a bad place to lay your head. Phone ahead, as the reception keeps short hours.
Siljans Konditori (150 70; Sparbanksgatan 5; sandwiches Skr35-65, buffet Skr60-80; 9am-7pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun) This large and inviting bakery-cafe serves good sandwiches on its own fresh bread from a busy corner of Stora Torget.
Bygatan 16 (155 05; Bygatan 16; lunch Skr90, mains Skr125-200; Mon-Sat) Bygatan is a smart place with a menu of light and main meals, including creative pasta, beef and fish dishes. The restaurant is closely linked to the local hockey team, and has a special ‘hockey menu’ during the playing season.
GETTING THERE & AROUND
There are a couple of direct intercity trains every day running from Stockholm to Leksand (Skr240, three hours). Bus 58 regularly connects Leksand with Tällberg (Skr35, 20 minutes), and bus 258 goes to Rättvik (Skr50, 20 to 50 minutes).
Tällberg
0247 / pop 200
The main reason to visit Tällberg is that it’s adorable: a whole village of precious little gingerbread houses, mostly painted Falu Red, sprinkled over a green hillside sloping toward a lake.
It knows it’s cute, too – the town of 200 residents supports eight upmarket hotels and several chic boutiques. It’s a tourist hot spot and an appealing place for lunch and a walk, but unless you’re after a romantic countryside escape, it’s perhaps better to stay in Rättvik or Leksand and visit for the afternoon.
The town has its own website (www.infotallberg.nu). It’s in Swedish, but has links to all the hotels.
Charm personified, Klockargården (502 60; www.klockargarden.com; Siljansvägen 6; s/d/ste from Skr635/1270/2070; ) is a collection of old timber buildings set around a grassy green courtyard, plus a newer wing built in 2004. Each unique room is decorated in a tasteful country style, all the suites have Jacuzzis, and several rooms have balconies. Frequent summer craft fairs and folk concerts take place on the grounds. The restaurant has a daily lunch buffet for around Skr100; à la carte mains cost Skr145