Sweden - Becky Ohlsen [213]
You can get your open-air-museum fix at Hembygdsgård Gammelgård (514 45; admission free; 11am-5pm mid-Jun–mid-Aug), 500m north of the church – it’s a 1909 collection of buildings that were moved here during the ’20s from villages around Rättvik parish. There’s a good collection of furniture painted in the local style. The grounds are always open for exploring, but the cafe and building interiors are open summer-only.
Central Kulturhuset (701 95; Storgatan 2; admission free; 11am-7pm Mon-Thu, 11am-3pm Fri, 11am-2pm Sat, 1-5pm Sun) houses the public library, art exhibitions and a display describing the Siljan meteor impact. The helpful staff go above and beyond to answer any questions you might have about the area.
The easy ski slopes (www.rattviksbacken.nu; day pass adult/child Skr215/170) are excellent; there are four lifts.
Dalhalla (79 79 50; www.dalhalla.se), an old limestone quarry 7km north of Rättvik, is used as an open-air theatre and concert venue in summer; the acoustics are incredible and the setting is stunning.
SLEEPING
Summer accommodation in Rättvik disappears fast, so it’s worth booking ahead – even for camp sites. Central places to stay are few and far between.
Rättviksparken (561 10; rattviksparken@rattviks-parken.fh.se; Furudalsvägen 1; campsites low/high season Skr130/170, cabins from Skr425) A large, bustling camp site by the river off Centralgatan (1km from the train station), behind the STF hostel, this area includes a fäbod (summer livestock farm) and is built to echo the traditional, rustic look of old farmhouse buildings. Siljansleden passes through the site.
Siljansbadet Camping (516 91; www.siljansbadet.com; sites low/high season Skr130/200, 4-bed cabins from Skr450; May-Oct) Near the train station, this quiet, woodsy camp site is on the lake shore and boasts its own Blue Flag beach.
STF Vandrarhem (105 66; Centralgatan; dm Skr150; reception 8-10am & 5-6pm; ) A comfortable hostel with dorm rooms in three wooden buildings clustered round a grassy courtyard, this quiet place has good facilities including a nice kitchen with a large dining/TV room in the main building, and picnic tables on the lawn for alfresco dining.
Stiftsgården Rättvik (510 20; www.stiftsgarden.org; Kyrkvägen 2; s with shared bathroom Skr380, s with/without shower Skr640/525, d with/without shower Skr1020/760) This picturesque, church-run place is by the lake, away from the hustle and bustle of town but within easy walking distance and near footpaths and outdoor activities. Rooms are simple but pleasant; breakfast is included, and lunch (Skr80) and dinner (Skr95) are available. Canoes and cycles can be hired.
Hotell Vidablick (302 50; vidablick@hantverksbyn.se; Faluvägen; s/d from Skr650/1050, discounted to Skr600/850) Vidablick is an excellent choice, with rustic hotel accommodation in grass-roofed huts, some with lake views. The hotel is behind the OKQ8 petrol station on the road to Leksand, about 3km south of town. The attached restaurant (open May to August; dagens lunch Skr78; coffee and cakes Skr32) has free wi-fi, a great view from its outdoor tables, and dance nights on Thursday.
Jöns-Andersgården (130 15; www.jons-andersgarden.se; Bygatan 4; d with shared/private bathroom Skr750/1150, ste from Skr1300; mid-Apr–mid-Oct; ) Beds here are in traditional wooden huts dating from the 15th century, way up on the hill with superb views. Rooms are all in tip-top shape with modern interiors, and there’s one suite that has its own sauna. If you don’t have transport, the owners will pick you up from the train station by arrangement, and breakfast is included in the price. Take bus 74.
EATING & DRINKING
Fricks Konditori (133 36; Stora Torget; fika Skr26, sandwiches from Skr35) An old-fashioned bakery-cafe with a casual, neighbourhoody feel, Fricks offers sandwiches, quiches and salads but specialises in decadent cakes and pastries.